African Americans; United States -- Race relations
The way is eastward to Sylvania and the Savannah River, and then south
to the rice fields and the harbor. The road is deep in sand, and
on each side is uncleared country with high yellow reeds below and
lofty pines above. Persimmons, ripe and yellow, grow by the wayside,
a luscious fruit, good when just rotten and full of softness and sun
heat. Large bird-like butterflies gracefully flitting down the long
corridors between the pines, and myriads of jumping mantises and
grasshoppers suggest that it is not November. The golden foliage of
an occasional beech reminds you that it is. The woods are deep and
gloomy and melancholy. A poorer population lives by pitch-boiling and
lumbering. Every pine tree is bearded with lichen. Moss hangs in long
festoons from the branches. The great dark trunks are here and there
silvered with congealed floods of sap. Trenches two inches deep have
been cut in the wood, and tin gutters and pots have been fixed up to
collect the resin. Every other tree has a brown pot tied to it, and
each pot is half full of the pearly liquid life of the trees. You
emerge from the forest to the pretty clearing of Rincom with a Lutheran
church which has a metal swan above the spire—symbol of the fact that
the first congregation, the one that built the church, had come across
the water from Europe. Six miles from Rincom is the oldest church in
all this part of Georgia, the Ebenezer Chapel, founded by those first
German settlers who sailed up the Savannah River, and in part founded
the colony of Georgia. It also is a church of the swan. The forest is
very dense, and Negroes with shotguns are potting at wild birds from
the highway. Wayside cottages and churches seem almost overcome with
the tillandsia, a subtropical mossy growth that seems to grow downward
rather than upward. There is a slight clearing and a cemetery in the
depth of the forest, and the hundreds of pines and cypresses and oaks
about it are weeping with this hanging moss. The county is that of
Effingham. Springfield, the capital, without electric light, deep
in yellow sand, with a great public square where all the many trees
look like weeping willows because of this gray-green tillandsia hair
trailing and waving ten or twenty feet to a tress, is an obscure town.
Guideposts for Florida begin to appear, and heavy touring cars roll
past on the way to Miami and Palm Beach. There are some charming wooden
churches—the Negro ones being poorer, looking better sacrifices unto
God than those of the Whites. But above the counter in the chief store
is written
In God we trust,
All others pay cash.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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