African Americans; United States -- Race relations
The sound of the axe clashes in the woods. There are many fallen trunks
on which it is possible to sit down and rest. Sea mist rolls in from
the Atlantic, and warm airs push through it, feeding the marvelous
tropical mosses. It’s a long way to Savannah—distance seems to be
intensified by the narrowness of the gray corridor of the road through
the vast, high forest. There rises from the obstructed earth black oak
and sterile vine and palmettoes like ladies’ hands with opened fans.
The surface whence the forest grows is swampy, old, lichened, mossy,
springy. It’s hard to find solid earth, so many branches seem to be
overgrown with verdure and moss. In the heat long snakes glide away
from your approach, having seen you before you saw them. And _rat_,
_rat_, _rat_, the red-polled woodpeckers in their tree-top cities call
upon one another and seek their insect luncheons and then flit home and
knock again. The white people speak a “nigger brogue” which is almost
indistinguishable from Negro talk, and they never pronounce an _r_. The
Negro seems very poor and illiterate and afraid. “Hear comes the OLD
RELIABLE FRIND with the LIFT of CHRIST” says a notice on an old wooden
church of colored folk.
I am overtaken by a Negro with a wagon and twelve bales of cotton,
and though he seems trying to race a huge touring car “heading for
Florida” with trunks on top and whole family within, he slows down to
pick me up. His is an enormous lorry, ponderous and ramshackle, shaking
the bones out of your body as it takes you along. The Negro boy held
the steering wheel nonchalantly with one hand and blundered along at
top speed. After ten miles of this we entered one of the vast cotton
warehouses outside Savannah, passed the gateman who would not have
let me in but he thought I was in charge, and we saw where a hundred
thousand bales were being housed and kept. Scores of Negroes were at
work manipulating bales on trolley trains run by petrol engines all
over the asphalted way, and from shed to shed.
“Are you shipping much cotton?” I asked of a white man who was giving
us a receipt for the cotton brought in, while a dozen husky fellows
were unloading the wagon. “Not much,” said he. “Holding for better
prices,” he added, and smiled knowingly.
Then with the empty wagon we rolled off for Savannah, and the boy
driver told me he was going to work his passage soon on a ship from
Savannah to New York. “We don’t get a chance down here.”
And yet how much better off was he with his wagon, and union wages, and
life in a large city than the poor ex-slave, on the land!
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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