The source of the Blue Nile : $b a record of a journey through the Soudan to Lake Tsana in western Abyssinia, and of the return to Egypt by the valley of the Atbara, with a note on the religion, customs, etc. of AbyssiniaHayes, Arthur J.
Religion
The source of the Blue Nile : $b a record of a journey through the Soudan to Lake Tsana in western Abyssinia, and of the return to Egypt by the valley of the Atbara, with a note on the religion, customs, etc. of Abyssinia
Hayes, Arthur J.
Ethiopia -- Description and travel; Ethiopia -- Religion; Sudan -- Description and travel
The Abyssinian liturgy is not impressive, according to European
ideas. Stern was present at one of the services, and gave a lively
description of it. “The deafening tom-tom of the _negareet_,
intermingled with the nasal chorus of a host of _debterahs_ in
varying cadences, reverberated on my ear. This indication that the
service had already begun put a stop to our contemplation of the
grand mountain scene, and in a most reverent mood we hastened to the
uproarious sanctuary. A wooden gate in a circular wall brought us
within an open grassy space that formed the cemetery, and the spot
where, adjoining to the church, rises the Bethlehem in which the
priests prepare the eucharistic bread. A crowd of men and women,
as if in some place of amusement and dissipation, were spread in
picturesque knots over the soft turf. The majority were busily
plying their tongues, but I fear from the burst of merriment which
now and then broke from one or the other of those animated groups
that their conversations had very little to do either with religion
or the service in honour of the saint. Not belonging to this impure
class, who are justly excluded from the interior of the sacred edifice
(_i.e._ those whose marriage is secular and dissoluble), we mounted
a few steps, and then, through a partition occupied by the laity,
stepped into a second compartment concentric with the outer one, and
there found ourselves at the porch of the enclosure which constitutes
the _sanctum sanctorum_.
“Crowds of priests and _debterahs_ thronged the whole of that
corridor. The _debterahs_ constitute the choir in all their churches;
and their devotionless mien, as they chanted to the monotonous
sound of the _negareet_, quite excited my indignation. During the
maddening noise created by the _debterahs_, the priests, robed
in gaudy canonicals, were exerting to the utmost their cracked
voices in intoning the liturgy and psalms. At certain intervals
an ecclesiastic, clad in his garish finery, and attended by an
incense-waving boy-deacon and a bearer of the Ethiopic Gospel,
marched out of his sanctum into the cemetery to edify the godless
and profane multitude by reading to them a portion of Scripture in
an unknown tongue. A reverend gentleman near me, who was evidently
a great Church dignitary, as he wore a huge turban, and had a very
stupid unmeaning face, pointed his gaunt fingers towards the daubed
walls, and condescendingly inquired whether I knew St. George and
Miriam, the mother of God? . . .
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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