The source of the Blue Nile : $b a record of a journey through the Soudan to Lake Tsana in western Abyssinia, and of the return to Egypt by the valley of the Atbara, with a note on the religion, customs, etc. of AbyssiniaHayes, Arthur J.
Religion
The source of the Blue Nile : $b a record of a journey through the Soudan to Lake Tsana in western Abyssinia, and of the return to Egypt by the valley of the Atbara, with a note on the religion, customs, etc. of Abyssinia
Hayes, Arthur J.
Ethiopia -- Description and travel; Ethiopia -- Religion; Sudan -- Description and travel
On the morning of January 6, we started to climb to the plateau
in which Lake Tsana lies. The ascent commenced immediately. The
narrow track was extremely steep, and, as on the previous day, our
path was full of loose stones and led us over great rocks that crop
out of the mountain-side. The donkeys were constantly slipping and
falling. Some came to a standstill, and refused to budge. We had
to shove the animals by main force over boulders and up slippery
ledges of rock, and at places not a few of them were raised bodily,
loads and all, by means of their tails and forelegs, and lifted over
obstacles. At this rate of ascending we covered two miles in three
hours and a half, and still had a climb of another couple of miles
ahead of us. Then the character of the track changed, and we travelled
round a horseshoe-shaped chasm, following a path four feet wide,
with a sheer precipice four hundred feet deep below us and another
rising to the same height above our heads. It was a fine sight, and
there is a lovely growth of cactus on the mountain side. Besides,
we looked out upon a vast expanse of beautiful scenery, but I felt
uncomfortably like the ungodly of whom the psalmist said that they
were set in slippery places with a great risk of being cast down and
destroyed. “Oh, how suddenly do they consume; perish and come to
a fearful end!”[39] It was an inopportune moment to recall the text.
We reached the plateau at last, after another stiff climb upward
from the chasm. I need hardly say that the donkeys were utterly
fagged out. We had left the mimosas and the bamboos below us, and
Dupuis’ aneroid barometer showed that we were some six thousand
feet above sea-level. Here many species of cactus, large and small,
abounded. The soil on the plateau is rich, and the ground was thickly
covered with lush plants in blossom. I noticed, as I passed, the
familiar “red-hot poker,” the wild strawberry, moss of many hues
growing luxuriantly, the maiden-hair fern, and, on the trunk of a dead
tree, the Tonbridge fern. Many springs were bubbling from the rock,
and their courses were marked by the tenderest and brightest tints of
this wild mountain garden. I found that Dupuis, who had marched at
the head of the column, had been stopped by a couple of soldiers on
the edge of the plateau. The Abyssinian “regular” has no uniform,
but wears a dirty shama and the rest of the national costume, and
carries a rifle of an obsolete French pattern. These men were not
acting under Menelek’s orders but had been sent by the deputy of
the chief of the village, who was himself absent upon a visit to
Ras Gouksha, one of the great feudatories of Western Abyssinia. They
said that they had orders to stop the three Englishmen, and I found
that Dupuis had arranged to lunch at that spot and await developments.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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