The source of the Blue Nile : $b a record of a journey through the Soudan to Lake Tsana in western Abyssinia, and of the return to Egypt by the valley of the Atbara, with a note on the religion, customs, etc. of AbyssiniaHayes, Arthur J.
Religion
The source of the Blue Nile : $b a record of a journey through the Soudan to Lake Tsana in western Abyssinia, and of the return to Egypt by the valley of the Atbara, with a note on the religion, customs, etc. of Abyssinia
Hayes, Arthur J.
Ethiopia -- Description and travel; Ethiopia -- Religion; Sudan -- Description and travel
There was no great difficulty with the mules. One gave a lead,
and then the rest swam across, the boys swimming beside them. But
with the donkeys it was a different matter. The men tried coaxing
them, leading them, whacking them. It was all no good. The donkeys
settled into the firm, resolute stubbornness of their kind, which
is invincible, and it seemed as if the expedition would be left in
the condition of a wasp that has been cut through the middle—the
active half in one place and the “portage and storage” half
in another. Sunset began before progress had been made, and the
air was quickly becoming colder. Finally we solved the problem by
brute force. Five fixed nooses were tied in a long rope, and five
donkeys’ heads were put in the nooses. Then we, on the further side
of the stream, hauled on to the rope. It was a “tug of war,”
and we moved the donkeys. Then one of us took the rope back in
the boat, and the next batch came over by “cable ferry.” There
was a chance that the donkeys would struggle and strangle or drown
themselves, but all were pulled across without casualties. The last
three made the journey just after six o’clock. Of course our men
had to be in the water with the beasts to steady them, and keep
them in place, and all worked with a will. Some were in the stream,
off and on, for three or four hours, and the cold was sharp when the
sun sank. Unluckily there was no wood near our camping-ground, so
they had no fire to cheer them afterwards, and could not dry their
wet clothes. The Habashes, when they cross a ford of this kind,
roll all their garments into a bundle, which they carry on their
heads while they swim or wade. We were all sorry for the mischance
which denied the boys warmth after a wetting, and we served out a
nip of green chartreuse to those who had been in the water longest.
On the next day, January 16, we had before us the business of fording
the river Gumara, and, to avoid a repetition of the trouble with
the donkeys, we determined to strike away from the lakeside, so as
to reach the stream where we could go over on foot. Dupuis found
that this route would bring him close to the Debra Tabor road, and
at once resolved to set off, on the following morning, with a light
baggage train, to pay a visit of thanks to Ras Gouksha, who was at
that place. Crawley was to accompany him, while I stayed in charge
of the camp.
It was a short march from our halting-place beside the Reb to the
ford by which we were to cross the Gumara, and we did not start till
eleven o’clock. The baggage animals were able to have a feed of
grass, and they and the boys alike were warmed by the sun before
our journey began. All needed a little rest and comfort after the
previous day’s work.
It is a plain country between the Reb and the Gumara, partly covered
at that season by tall, dry grass, and partly by swamp-grass standing
in ooze. In the wet months the whole tract is a morass.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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