The source of the Blue Nile : $b a record of a journey through the Soudan to Lake Tsana in western Abyssinia, and of the return to Egypt by the valley of the Atbara, with a note on the religion, customs, etc. of AbyssiniaHayes, Arthur J.
Religion
The source of the Blue Nile : $b a record of a journey through the Soudan to Lake Tsana in western Abyssinia, and of the return to Egypt by the valley of the Atbara, with a note on the religion, customs, etc. of Abyssinia
Hayes, Arthur J.
Ethiopia -- Description and travel; Ethiopia -- Religion; Sudan -- Description and travel
Crawley opened his big artist’s umbrella, which should have been
a successful aid to comfort, but it tried conclusions with the wind
and was worsted. We started again at two o’clock, and arrived in
the evening at our camping-ground opposite the pleasant village
of Sheik-el-Obeid. Our guns played the part of poulterer for us
and varied our diet. In the morning Dupuis had shot a brace of
sand-grouse, and in the khor[1] below our camp I had the luck to
bag a teal. The temperature fell rapidly after sundown, and the
night was very cold. The mosquitoes were numbed and did not stir,
but the camels did, and I found them as effective in promoting a
vigil. All night long they were browsing on the mimosa scrub; they
relish the thorns, which are about two inches long. I heard them
pull the branches, and then, when one was released, it recoiled into
place with a swish. There was a continuous noise of this movement,
and it vaguely reminded me of breaking water.
The camels were hobbled, and stumbled from bush to bush. I constantly
expected that one would stumble upon my bed. They loomed up, shadowy
and grotesque, in the light of the bearers’ fires, and I had a
kind of nightmare of them without sleep.
On the 8th we were up before sunrise. Probably the camels, after
supping all night, were tired. I say “probably”; for the camel is
an aberrant type, and one can only guess its sensations. They were
unwilling to barak[2] to receive their loads, and were grunting,
snarling, and growling. When one of these beasts seems likely to
become unmanageable, the camel-man “bridles” it by passing his
index finger through the orifice between its nostrils. In breaking
in young ones, a stout thorn, shaped as a peg, is used in the same
position.
We started at 7.30, and walked ahead of the baggage train with our
guns. At nine o’clock, when the sun had gained power, we took to the
saddle. The country through which we passed is cultivated during the
rainy season; it is scored with ravines, hollowed out by the rush of
water in the wet months, and is uncomfortable ground for travellers.
During the day we shot five pigeons and a sand-grouse. Beside the
river we saw and heard great numbers of demoiselle cranes, but found
it impossible to get within gun-range of them. They have scouts on
the watch both when they are in flight and when they settle, and
as soon as the warning cry is given by the outpost the shooter’s
chance is gone.
We reached our camping-ground, near Bushagra, before five o’clock,
and pitched one tent for our own use in case a dust storm should
come upon us. I bathed on the brink of the river, but kept out of
the pool for fear of crocodiles. As yet I had seen none, but I made
their acquaintance quite closely enough later in the journey. The
night was warm, and we slept in the open on the bank of the Nile.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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