The source of the Blue Nile : $b a record of a journey through the Soudan to Lake Tsana in western Abyssinia, and of the return to Egypt by the valley of the Atbara, with a note on the religion, customs, etc. of AbyssiniaHayes, Arthur J.
Religion
The source of the Blue Nile : $b a record of a journey through the Soudan to Lake Tsana in western Abyssinia, and of the return to Egypt by the valley of the Atbara, with a note on the religion, customs, etc. of Abyssinia
Hayes, Arthur J.
Ethiopia -- Description and travel; Ethiopia -- Religion; Sudan -- Description and travel
About four o’clock in the afternoon my companions returned from
Debra Tabor. They had been received three times “in audience” by
the Ras, but I did not gather that any very deep impression had been
made upon them. They were, in fact, relieved to think that no more
visits of ceremony were in prospect. To the grief of all, one of our
soldiers had died on the journey. He was seized with fever the day
after he started, rapidly became worse, had to be left in a hut some
six miles out of Debra Tabor, and succumbed during the evening of
the second day of his illness. From a description of the symptoms,
I judged that his death was caused by severe intestinal irritation,
probably due to ptomaine poisoning. This, in all probability, resulted
from eating putrescent meat, a practice which we could not suppress
among our men, though it was particularly likely to be fatal in such
a climate as that of Abyssinia.
My companions brought with them some guinea-fowl and a sheep, and
we bought an ox in camp, which was to be killed the next day at
Korata. The cost of it was seven dollars, or about twelve shillings
and six pence, the vendor reserving the hide for his own purposes
as a condition of the bargain. That night a hyena was prowling
round my tent. I was not sure what manner of beast it was until
Crawley enlightened me next day. It certainly would not be safe for
a traveller to sleep in the open in places haunted by these creatures.
On the morning of January 22, after some delay in starting, we made
a steady jog-trot journey, through dried grass in a well-timbered
country, down the gentle slope that trends away from the plateau. The
track which we followed was rocky for the most part, and lay in
cultivable land. We saw enclosed fields here and there and numerous
villages—one in every four miles or so. There was no mishap, except
when the donkeys stuck in the mud at the bottom of the watercourses,
or lay down in it. And then it was dirty work to get them on, or
up. Just before one o’clock we arrived in Korata Bay and pitched
our camp there.
[Illustration: THE ‘CANDELABRA EUPHORBIA’ ON THE EDGE OF A DRY
WATER-COURSE.
_See p._ 66.]
[Illustration: BETWEEN SARA AND KORATA.
_See p._ 114.]
After lunch my companions started on muleback with their guns. They
were to be guided by a native boy about eighteen years old, whom our
interpreter Johannes had engaged in the town, and who said that he
knew where game was to be found. Crawley took the young fellow’s
staff in one hand, and in the other held out a Maria-Theresa dollar,
and made him understand by signs that if the sport was good he would
get the money, but if no game was seen he would have a cudgelling. The
humour of this tickled his fancy very much, and he was convulsed
with laughter over it. It was the first time I had seen an Abyssinian
enjoy a hearty laugh.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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