The source of the Blue Nile : $b a record of a journey through the Soudan to Lake Tsana in western Abyssinia, and of the return to Egypt by the valley of the Atbara, with a note on the religion, customs, etc. of AbyssiniaHayes, Arthur J.
Religion
The source of the Blue Nile : $b a record of a journey through the Soudan to Lake Tsana in western Abyssinia, and of the return to Egypt by the valley of the Atbara, with a note on the religion, customs, etc. of Abyssinia
Hayes, Arthur J.
Ethiopia -- Description and travel; Ethiopia -- Religion; Sudan -- Description and travel
When we reached camp I gave my new acquaintances a drink of chartreuse
in token of my gratitude, and then they squatted in front of my
tent, and seemed greatly interested in watching me while I dressed
a wound on the leg of one of the donkey-boys. They were doing no
harm, but “the tout” bustled up in his most consequential mood
to hurry them off, and I think he hit one of them. Anyhow, there
was some disturbance, and the other Habashes made common cause. The
corporal came to report to me that the escort officer was drunk,
and had struck a man. Thereupon I summoned “the tout” and rated
him, and ordered him to go and apologize to those visitors of mine,
who had done me a service. Matters straightened themselves out,
for the two men came to me half an hour later to say good-bye, and
they appeared to be perfectly happy and contented. They “bowed and
scraped” in the usual Abyssinian manner before they took their
departure. “The tout” made some representation to Dupuis when
he returned to camp; so I explained that the fellow was tipsy and
troublesome, and he was sent about his business. I gathered that he
asked leave to go, and hoped that he meant to quit us altogether,
but found afterwards that he had only sought permission to spend
the night in the town—over more tedj, of course. Dupuis paid no
heed to what he was saying, so off he went, but came back in an
unruffled mood, and full of complacency, on the following morning. I
think Johannes gave us the explanation of his conduct—that he had
orders from the Ras to make sure that we three Europeans should have
as little intercourse as possible with the Habashes.
That night the noise in our camp disturbed a hippo, whose
resting-place in the reeds was close by. I heard him snorting
loudly and angrily. He had a prescriptive right to quiet sleep
in that place, and I felt that we were intruders upon the ancient
order. The old-world life seemed to have a _raison d’être_ superior
to that of a modern expedition, and though the hippo kept me awake,
I sympathized with his indignation.
He and his kind were prominent figures in the scene next morning
(January 23). We counted five that were in sight together, and four
were less than two hundred yards from the shore.
After breakfast we visited the celebrated church of Korata. I am not
sure that it is the only one in the place, but its reputation makes
it _the_ church of Korata. We were told that a certain Frenchman
had travelled from France expressly to see it; if he did, it will be
owned that he was an exceptional Gaul, for the length and discomfort
of his journey were out of all proportion to the satisfaction to be
obtained at the end of it. The building—as my photograph of the
exterior shows—is circular, with thatched walls, and in point of
structure differs only in size from the village churches. It stands
in a compound, surrounded by a rough stone wall. The entrances are
two lich-gates, surmounted by thatched porticoes.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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