England -- Description and travel; Natural history -- England; Thomas, Edward, 1878-1917 -- Travel -- England
Of all the rocky land, of the sapphire sea white with quiet foam, the
barrows are masters. The breaking away of the rock has brought them
nearer to the sea as it has annihilated some and cut off the cliff-ways
in mid-career. They stand in the unenclosed waste and are removed from
all human uses and from most wayfaring. Thus they share the sublimity
of beacons and are about to show that tombs also have their deaths.
Linnet and stonechat and pipit seem to attend upon them, with pretty
voices and motions and a certain ghastliness, as of shadows, given
to their cheerful and sudden flittings by the solemn neighbourhood.
But most of their hold upon the spirit they owe to their powerful
suggestion that here upon the high sea border was once lived a bold
proud life, like that of Beowulf, whose words, when he was dying from
the wounds of his last victory, were: “Bid the warriors raise a funeral
mound to flash with fire on a promontory above the sea, that it may
stand high and be a memorial by which my people shall remember me, and
seafarers driving their tall ships through the mist of the sea shall
say: ‘Beowulf’s Mound.’”
In Cornwall as in Wales, these monuments are the more impressive,
because the earth, wasting with them and showing her bones, takes their
part. There are days when the age of the Downs, strewn with tumuli and
the remnants of camp and village, is incredible; or rather they seem
in the course of long time to have grown smooth and soft and kind,
and to be, like a rounded languid cloud, an expression of Earth’s
summer bliss of afternoon. But granite and slate and sandstone jut
out, and in whatsoever weather speak rather of the cold, drear, hard,
windy dawn. Nothing can soften the lines of Trendreen or Brown Willy
or Carn Galver against the sky. The small stone-hedged ploughlands
amidst brake and gorse do but accentuate the wildness of the land
from which they have been won. The deserted mines are frozen cries of
despair as if they had perished in conflict with the waste; and in a
few years their chimneys standing amidst rotted woodwork, the falling
masonry, the engine rusty, huge and still (the abode of rabbits, and
all overgrown with bedstraw, the stern thistle and wizard henbane) are
in keeping with the miles of barren land, littered with rough silvered
stones among heather and furze, whose many barrows are deep in fern and
bramble and foxglove. The cotton grass raises its pure nodding white.
The old roads dive among still more furze and bracken and bramble and
foxglove, and on every side the land grows no such crop as that of grey
stones. Even in the midst of occasional cornfield or weedless pasture
a long grey upright stone speaks of the past. In many places men have
set up these stones, roughly squaring some of them, in the form of a
circle or in groups of circles--and over them beats the buzzard in
slow hesitating and swerving flight. In one place the work of Nature
might be mistaken for that of man.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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