England -- Description and travel; Natural history -- England; Thomas, Edward, 1878-1917 -- Travel -- England
First beeches line the rising and descending road--past a church whose
ivied tombstones commemorate men of Cornish name--as far as an inn
and a sycamore nobly balanced upon a pedestal of matted roots. Then
there are ash-trees on either side and ricks of straw wetted to an
orange hue, and beyond them the open cornland, and rising out of it an
all-day-long procession in the south, the great company of the Downs
again, some tipped with wood, some bare; in the north, a broken chain
of woods upon low but undulating land seem the vertebræ of a forest
of old time stretching from east to west like the Downs. Hither and
thither the drunken pewits cry over the furrows, and thousands of
rocks and daws wheel over the stubble. As the day grows old it grows
sweet and golden and the rain ceases, and the beauty of the Downs in
the humid clearness does not long allow the eyes to wander away from
them. At first, when the sun breaks through, all silver bright and
acclaimed by miles of clouds in his own livery, the Downs below are
violet, and have no form except where they carve the sky with their
long arches. It is the woods northward that are chiefly glorified by
the light and warmth, and the glades penetrating them and the shining
stubble and the hedges, and the flying wood-pigeons and the cows of
richest brown and milky white; the road also gleams blue and wet. But
as the sun descends the light falls on the Downs out of a bright cave
in the gloomy forest of sky, and their flanks are olive and their
outlines intensely clear. From one summit to another runs a string of
trees like cavalry connecting one beech clump with another, so that
they seem actually to be moving and adding themselves to the clumps.
Above all is the abstract beauty of pure line--coupled with the beauty
of the serene and the uninhabited and remote--that holds the eye until
at length the hills are humbled and dispread as part of the ceremony
of sunset in a tranquil, ensanguined, quietly travelling sky. The blue
swallows go slowly along the silent road beside me, and the last rays
bless a grooved common grazed upon by cows and surrounded by ranges
of low white buildings and a row of lichened grotesque limes, dark of
bole, golden-leaved, where children are playing and an anvil rings.
Frost follows after the blue silence and chill of twilight, and the
dawn is dimmest violet in a haze that reveals the candied grass, the
soaking blue dark elms painted yellow only in one place, the red roofs,
all in a world of the unborn, and the waters steaming around invisible
crying coots. Gradually round white clouds--so dim that the sky seems
but to dream of round white clouds--appear imbedded in the haze; the
beams grow hot, and a breeze joins with them in sucking and scattering
all the sweet of the first fallen leaves, the weed fires and the late
honeysuckle.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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