England -- Description and travel; Natural history -- England; Thomas, Edward, 1878-1917 -- Travel -- England
The decent vale consists of square green fields and park-like slopes,
dark pine and light beech: but beyond that the trees gather together in
low ridge after ridge so that the South Country seems a dense forest
from east to west. On one side of the hill road is a common of level
ash and oak woods, holly and thorn at their edges, and between them
and the dust a grassy tract, sometimes furzy; on the other, oaks and
beeches sacred to the pheasant but exposing countless cuckoo flowers
among the hazels of their underwood. Please trespass. The English game
preserve is a citadel of woodland charm, and however precious, it has
only one or two defenders easily eluded and, when met, most courteous
to all but children and not very well dressed women. The burglar’s
must be a bewitching trade if we may judge by the pleasures of the
trespasser’s unskilled labour.
In the middle of the wood is a four-went way, and the grassy or white
roads lead where you please among tall beeches or broad, crisp-leaved
shining thorns and brief open spaces given over to the mounds of ant
and mole, to gravel pits and heather. Is this the Pilgrims’ Way, in the
valley now, a frail path chiefly through oak and hazel, sometimes over
whin and whinberry and heather and sand, but looking up at the yews and
beeches of the chalk hills? It passes a village pierced by straight
clear waters--a woodland church--woods of the willow wren--and then,
upon a promontory, alone, within the greenest mead rippled up to its
walls by but few graves, another church, dark, squat, small-windowed,
old, and from its position above the world having the characters of
church and beacon and fortress, calling for all men’s reverence. Up
here in the rain it utters the pathos of the old roads behind, wiped
out as if writ in water, or worn deep and then deserted and surviving
only as tunnels under the hazels. I wish they could always be as
accessible as churches are, and not handed over to land-owners--like
Sandsbury Lane near Petersfield--because straight new roads have taken
their places for the purposes of tradesmen and carriage people, or
boarded up like that discarded fragment, deep-sunken and overgrown,
below Colman’s Hatch in Surrey. For centuries these roads seemed to
hundreds so necessary, and men set out upon them at dawn with hope
and followed after joy and were fain of their whiteness at evening:
few turned this way or that out of them except into others as well
worn (those who have turned aside for wantonness have left no trace at
all), and most have been well content to see the same things as those
who went before and as they themselves have seen a hundred times. And
now they, as the sound of their feet and the echoes, are dead, and the
roads are but pleasant folds in the grassy chalk. Stay, traveller, says
the dark tower on the hill, and tread softly because your way is over
men’s dreams; but not too long; and now descend to the west as fast as
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