England -- Description and travel; Natural history -- England; Thomas, Edward, 1878-1917 -- Travel -- England
CHAPTER V
SUSSEX
A few miles south of that great presiding pollard beech is the boundary
line between Surrey and Kent on the north and Sussex on the south. A
few miles over the line the moorland organ roll of heather and birch
and pine succeeds the grassy undulations and the well-grown beech and
oak. The yellow roving lines of the paths cut through the heather
into the sand add to the wildness of the waste, by their suggestion
of mountain torrents and of channels worn in the soft rock or clay
by the sea. The same likeness in little is often to be seen upon a
high-pitched roof of thatch when the straw is earth-coloured and
tunnelled by birds and seamed by rain. Here the houses are of stone,
unadorned, heather-thatched. The maker of birch-heath brooms plies his
trade. There are stacks of heath and gorse in the yard. All the more
fair are the grooves in the moorland, below the region of pines, where
the tiled white-boarded mill stands by the sheen of a ford, and the
gorse is bright and white clothes are blowing over neat gardens and
the first rose. On a day of rain and gloom the answer of the gorse to
sudden lights and heats is delicious; all those dull grey and glaucous
and brown dry spines bursting into cool and fragrant fire is as great a
miracle as the turning of flames to roses round a martyr’s feet.
It is only too easy for the pheasant lords to plant larch in
parallelograms: to escape from them it is necessary to go in
amongst them. Yet there are parts of the forest large and dark and
primeval in look, with a few poor isolated houses and a thin file
of telegraph posts crossing it among the high gloomy pines and down
to the marshy hollows, to the strewn gold of dwarf willows, and up
again to the deserted wooden windmill, the empty boarded cottage,
the heather-thatched sheds at the southern edge of the moor. Looking
at this tract of wild land the mind seems to shed many centuries of
civilization and to taste something of the early man’s alarm in the
presence of the uncultured hills--an alarm which is in us tempered
so as to aid an impression of the sublime. Its influence lingers in
the small strips of roadside gorse beyond its proper boundary. Then,
southward, there are softly dipping meadows, fields of young corn,
and oaks thrown among the cowslips. The small farmhouses are neat and
good--one has a long stone wall in front, and, over the road, tall
Scotch firs above a green pond dappled by the water crowfoot’s white
blossoms and bordered by sallow and rush. Narrow copses of oak or wide
hedges of hazel and sallow line the road; and they are making cask
hoops under lodges of boughs at the woodsides. Bluebells and primroses
and cuckoo flowers are not to be counted under the trees. The long
moist meadows flow among the woods up and down from farm to farm and
spire to tower. Each farmhouse group is new--this one is roofed and
walled with tiles; and opposite is a tangle of grass and gorse, with
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