The South Devon CoastHarper, Charles G. (Charles George)
History
The South Devon Coast
Harper, Charles G. (Charles George)
Devon (England) -- Description and travel
Why, confound the purblind, batlike stupidity of it! red brick is not
wanted at Sidmouth, where the cliffs are the very reddest of all Devon.
We need not give the old builders of white-faced Sidmouth any credit for
artistic perceptions, for they could not choose but build in the fashion
of their age, and everywhere alike, after our own use and wont; but,
by chance, they did exactly the right thing here, and in midst of this
richest red of the cliffs, this emerald green of the exquisite foliage,
this yellow of the beach, deep blue of the sea, and cerulean blue
above, planted their terraces and isolated squares of cool, contrasting
whiteness. It was a white period, if you come to consider it, a time
of book-muslin and simplicity, both natural and affected, and although
Sidmouth was fashionable it was not flamboyant.
To this place, for health and quiet, on account of their embarrassed
finances, and for the sake of their infant daughter, the Princess
Victoria, then only a few months old, the Duke and Duchess of Kent came
in the autumn of 1819, and took up their residence at the pretty cottage
in Woolacombe Glen, still standing at the western extremity of the town.
Here, quite unexpectedly, for he was a robust man, and but fifty-three
years of age, the Duke died, January 23rd, 1820, from inflammation of
the lungs, the result of a chill. Croker wrote of the event: “You will
be surprised at the Duke of Kent’s death. He was the strongest of the
strong. Never before ill in all his life, and now to die of a cold when
half the kingdom have colds with impunity. It was very bad luck indeed.
It reminds me of Æsop’s fable of the oak and the reed.”
Sidmouth continued to grow in favour for years afterwards, and only
began to experience neglect when the opening of the railways to the
West discovered other beautiful spots in Devonshire. Next to the Royal
association already recounted, Sidmouth most prides itself on the fact
that in 1831 the Grand Duchess Helene of Russia for three months resided
at Fortfield Terrace. Without recourse to a book of reference I do not
quite know who exactly was this Grand Duchess, and am not so impressed as
I doubtless ought to be. Nor do I think any one else is impressed; but
the local historian will never forget the circumstance, and indeed it is
devoutly kept in remembrance by the black effigy of a double-headed eagle
on the frontage of the terrace.
The railway that took away the prosperity of Sidmouth is now instrumental
in keeping it prosperously select, for it is something of a business to
arrive in Sidmouth by train, and a great deterrent to trippers to have
to change at Sidmouth Junction and, journeying by a branch line, to be
deposited on the platform of Sidmouth station, one mile from the town.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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