The South Devon CoastHarper, Charles G. (Charles George)
History
The South Devon Coast
Harper, Charles G. (Charles George)
Devon (England) -- Description and travel
Exeter is an interesting city, and its citizens, in their own streets
and in their everyday garb are sufficiently amiable, but when Exmouth
on Sundays and other holiday-times is overrun with Exeter’s young
men, tradesmen’s assistants, clad in the impossible clothes pictured
on provincial advertisement boardings, laughing horse-laughs, singing
London’s last season’s comic songs, wearing flashy jewellery, and smoking
bad cigars, Exeter’s reputation, and Exmouth’s suffer alike. If you can
imagine such a curious hybrid as a provincial cockney—the type really
exists, although it has not yet been noticed by men of science—you may
picture something of Exmouth’s week-end patrons. The provincial cockney,
poor thing, imagines himself in the forefront of style, but he is merely
a caricature of the London cockney plus his own accent, which, wedded to
cockney slang, is peculiarly offensive.
But Exmouth, when its week-end patrons are behind their counters, in
their aprons, is a vastly-different place. It is cheap, and has always
been, and always will be, but it is at last sloughing off that air of
impending bankruptcy that once sat so dolefully upon the scene; and the
shops that were once mere apologies are now for the most part real shops,
and stocked with articles less than ten years old. Moreover, the tennis
lawns and gardens have grown by lapse of time into things of beauty: the
lawns becoming something else than bald patches of red earth, and the
gardens luxuriant indeed. But cheap railway trips from Exeter, only ten
miles distant, by South Western Railway, have determined the character
of Exmouth for ever, and grey stucco, only on the outskirts occasionally
varied with red brick, or rough-cast, has clothed it in a sad shabbiness
until its ninety-nine years building-leases shall have lapsed.
Modern times, however, are making themselves felt in other directions. In
early days, when the town of Exmouth was merely a longshore settlement
called “Pratteshythe,” situated where the docks now are, the mouth of the
river was largely obstructed by an immense sandbank stretching from this
shore. At some unnamed period this geographical feature of the place
changed sides, and has for centuries past been that delightfully wild,
nearly two-miles long wilderness, “the Warren,” which extends a sandy arm
from Langston Cliff; leaving something less than half-a-mile of fairway
at the mouth of Exe. Until quite recently the Warren has remained the
haunt of the wild-fowler and the naturalist, but now the red roofs of
bungalows are beginning to plentifully dot the wastes; and to play at
Robinson Crusoe, with twentieth-century embellishments and more or less
luxurious fringes, has become a favourite summer pastime on this once
solitary haunt of the heron, the wild duck, and the sea-mew.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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