The South Devon CoastHarper, Charles G. (Charles George)
History
The South Devon Coast
Harper, Charles G. (Charles George)
Devon (England) -- Description and travel
The sea-front of Teignmouth, following the semi-circle of the Den, is
decoratively imposing when viewed at a little distance, for there is much
virtue, architecturally, in a crescent, however little there may be in
the houses individually. They are ambitious buildings, chiefly in these
times boarding-houses, but with the “Royal Hotel” and the ugly East Devon
and Teignmouth Club prominent among them. According to intention and to
the description given of the Club-house in local literature, it is in
the Ionic style, but seeing that it is of brick and rubble, faced with
plaster masquerading as stone, we shall not be far wrong in declaring
that, in spite of—nay, because of—its colonnade of squatty columns
pretending to be Greek, its style is more fitly to be described as
“ironic.”
There is, indeed, a great deal of very bad architecture in Teignmouth,
of the pretentious kind; very solid, stolid and ugly, and the newer
houses, although more pleasing to the eye, are generally of an incredible
flimsiness. If the natural scenery of sea, land, and river were not so
surprisingly beautiful, the builders’ handiwork would long ago have
ruined Teignmouth, and it says much for the natural advantages of the
place that, although there are less than half a dozen decent bits of
architecture, ancient or modern, in the town, it is voted delightful by
thousands of holiday-makers.
It is because I love Teignmouth so well that I criticise it so closely.
For the sake of the place that nature has endowed so richly, one must
needs protest against the things that have been done, the blunders and
the vulgarities that have been perpetrated. Was ever there a place where
advertisements could look more offensive? Yet the entrance to the pier
is smothered with them. They stand boldly out against the scenery, and
your view across to Torbay or to Exmouth is obliterated by the pushful
poster and the enamelled iron sign. Frankly, they are grievous mistakes.
One does not always want to be playing Rogers’ pianos, nor even, for that
matter, Paish’s; and there are times—incredible though it may seem—when
Fry’s Cocoa and Dunville’s Whisky are distinctly _de trop_. But enough!
Coming into Teignmouth by the sea-wall, almost the first building
met with is East Teignmouth Church, almost wholly rebuilt in recent
years, from the 1887 Jubilee Tower downwards. It is one of Teignmouth’s
two parish churches that once formed a couple owning the unenviable
distinction of being pre-eminently the ugliest churches in all Devon, but
now that the Jubilee and later activities have utterly altered the aspect
of this church of St. Michael, East Teignmouth, that unlovely brotherhood
has been dissolved, and St. James’s, West Teignmouth, reigns supreme in
the kingdom of the grotesque.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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