The South Devon CoastHarper, Charles G. (Charles George)
History
The South Devon Coast
Harper, Charles G. (Charles George)
Devon (England) -- Description and travel
There are reasons all-sufficient why Teignmouth’s poetic associations
should not be flaunted. Too great insistence upon Praed would advertise
more fully the brutal vandalism permitted of late years at Bitton, when
no finger was stirred to save that lovely wooded riverside park from
being cut up and demolished, to build cheap houses upon. Bitton was one
of the loveliest places upon the Teign. In the words of Praed himself:
“There beamed upon the river side
A shady dwelling-place
Most beautiful! Upon that spot,
Beside the echoing wave,
A fairy might have built her grot,
An anchorite his grave.
The river with its constant fall
Came close up to the garden wall,
As if it longed, but thought it sin,
To look into the charms within.
Behind majestic mountains frowned
And dark, rich groves were all around.”
The “dark, rich groves,” were no mere poetic imagery. They were largely
ilex, or “evergreen oak,” for which streets of the flimsiest houses in
close-packed ranks are the sorriest exchange.
Keats, of course, no self-respecting Devonian would mention. He came,
himself consumptive, to Teignmouth in 1818, to cheer the last hours of
his brother Tom, dying of that disease. Here, lodging at No. 35, Strand,
he completed _Endymion_ and wrote _Isabella_; but it was winter and
spring at the time of his sojourn, and although spring and winter in
South Devon are preferable to those seasons elsewhere, he found the moist
humours of the rainy West anything but pleasant:
[Illustration: KINGSTEIGNTON.]
“You may say what you will of Devonshire: the truth is, it is a splashy,
rainy, misty, snowy, foggy, haily, floody, muddy, slipshod county. The
hills are very beautiful, when you get a sight of ’em; the primroses
are out, but you are in; the cliffs are of a fine deep colour, but then
the clouds are continually vieing with them. … The flowers here wait
as naturally for the rain twice a day as mussels do for the tide. This
Devonshire is like Lydia Languish, very entertaining when it smiles, but
cursedly subject to sympathetic moisture.”
But occasionally the weather was kinder. It does not rain all day and
every day in Devon, even in winter; and during these dry interludes
Keats discovered some of those amazingly many villages that owe their
name to the Teign:
“There’s Bishop’s Teign,
And King’s Teign,
And Coombe at the clear Teignhead—
Where close by the stream
You may have your cream
All spread upon barley bread.
There is Newton Marsh,
With its spear-grass harsh,
A pleasant summer level
Where the maidens sweet
Of the Market Street
Do meet in the dusk to revel.”
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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