The South Devon CoastHarper, Charles G. (Charles George)
History
The South Devon Coast
Harper, Charles G. (Charles George)
Devon (England) -- Description and travel
At the point, just where the river and the sea meet, off the toy
lighthouse, is the noblest view of the Ness, the great red bluff that
turns a jagged front to the sea, and lifts a shaggy head of firs to the
sky. With a dark and oily smoothness that betokens depth and strength of
current, the estuary of the Teign empties itself at the ebb, and fills
again with feathered spray on yonder rocks. Above Shaldon, opposite, rise
the great hills, up whose sides climbs the road to Torquay: hills fertile
to their very summits, and remarkable for their subdivision by hedgerows
all the way up those staggering gradients. From nowhere better than from
Teignmouth can this beautiful and characteristic feature of a Devonshire
landscape be seen.
Let us leave Teignmouth here by the ferry-boat, in preference to walking
over the long bridge. Both bridge and ferry belong to one company, and
the toll each way, by either of them is the same modest penny. The ferry
goes from one sandy beach to another, touching the opposite shore
immediately under the roadway, the little forecourt gardens, and the
bow-windowed houses of Shaldon, which seems to the stranger the oddest,
brightest, cleanest and most quiet of townlets, and for a while puts
Teignmouth in the shade. Shaldon, however, is very much of a “dead end,”
a backwater, or still pool of life, and when the visitors are gone, when
the children have deserted the warm sands, and the half-dozen ferry boats
that are required in summer are reduced to two; and when nature, with
autumn past, frugally turns the lights down until next spring, Shaldon
is apt to be dull. But there is always the harbour to look out upon, and
Teignmouth across the river; although, to be sure, there is the reverse
view of the harbour and of Shaldon from Teignmouth. For myself, I incline
to think the outlook upon the harbour and Shaldon and the hills from
Teignmouth the best, especially since the appearance on the Bitton estate
of those houses you wot of. But this is certain, while human nature
remains true to itself: wherever you are not, there you would be, just
as, whatever you are doing, you look forward to the doing of something
quite different; or else, doing nothing, yearn to be busy, and being
busy, long for idleness.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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