The South Devon CoastHarper, Charles G. (Charles George)
History
The South Devon Coast
Harper, Charles G. (Charles George)
Devon (England) -- Description and travel
The Torquay road is inexorably hilly and white and hot, but it looks
inland down on to samples of Canaan, where, amid a blue haze of
fertility, you see trees and grass more nearly blue than green, among
the freshly turned fields that are red. It is a land of fatness. There,
down in those folded valleys, is a distant glimpse of the Teign, with the
white-faced, yellow-thatched cottages of “Stokeintinny” and “Cumeintinny”
enwrapped in an air of prosperity; and here is the ridge-road, like an
oven. “Aw! my dear sawls, ’tes tar’ble hot.”
Here stands the old toll-house the country folk call “Solomon’s Post”;
but why? Ah! he who pervades the country asking for the reasons of things
is not to be envied. For my part, the likeliest reason of this name is
that the tolls on this turnpike-trust may have been farmed by one of
those numerous Jews who took up that class of business.
Lanes on the left-hand presently lead down to Minnicombe and Maidencombe,
where there are embowered hamlets giving upon the sea; and in another
mile yet another leads down to Watcombe. Watcombe is not what it was
fifteen years ago. Then a countryfied lane opened out upon a grassy
valley dropping to the sea. From the turf there soared aloft the ruddiest
of all the ruddy cliffs of South Devon, seamed and seared with the
weathering of ages, and as thickly pocketed with holes as a Post Office
_poste-restante_ rack. The cliff is there, as ever, and the holes, and
the pigeons and jackdaws that inhabit them, but the undergrowth has grown
up in dense and tangled masses everywhere, the hedges of the rustic lane
have given place to stone walls, and all the pleasant approaches are
enclosed in the grounds of somebody’s private domain. Confound Somebody,
say I: may the dogs defile the grave of his great-great-grandmother.
But let us take these outrages as calmly as we may, or not seek to
further explore; for the approach to Torquay through Babbacombe and
Marychurch is a perfect orgie of Wall. It must have been a difficult and
an expensive matter to so successfully shut out the scenery, but it has
been so thoroughly done that when you do at last come to the cliff-top of
Babbacombe Downs, the lovely clear outlook there over the sea and down to
the beach seems, by contrast, like a hole in the wall.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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