THE SPELL OF BELGIUM [Illustration: _Grande Place and Belfry, Furnes_ (_See page 249_)] _The_ SPELL _of_ BELGIUM _BY Isabel Anderson Author of "The Spell of Japan," etc._ ILLUSTRATED BOSTON THE PAGE COMPANY PUBLISHERS _Copyright, 1915, by_ THE PAGE COMPANY _All rights reserved_ Made in U.S.A. First Impression, October, 1915 Second Impression, January, 1916 Third Impression, June, 1917 Fourth Impression, March, 1919 Fifth Impression, January, 1922 PRINTED BY C. H. SIMONDS COMPANY BOSTON, MASS., U.S.A. DEDICATED WITH AFFECTION TO MY GODCHILD CHARLES PELHAM GREENOUGH MAY HE BE AS BRAVE AS THE BELGIANS FOREWORD Belgium has contributed generously to the world in the past. Much has been destroyed in this ruthless war, but much remains, for Belgium had much to give. How splendid are her unique guild-halls with their fretted towers, her massive mediæval gates and quaint old houses bordering the winding canals! Through centuries, in one way or another, she has continued to hold the world's admiration. In olden times, when the clever weavers wrought historic scenes in their Flemish tapestries, they surely wove into the hearts of our forefathers the Spell of Belgium. In Belgium, the home of the violin, we have listened to the magic strains of the great masters and been charmed by the musical verses of Maeterlinck. There, too, we have gazed upon her inimitable Rubens and van Eycks. But today we stand spellbound before the Belgians themselves, the heroes of this war. The legends of Antwerp were written out by the eminent Flemish historian, Sleeckx, over fifty years ago, and were found in the library at Antwerp. This version has been translated directly from the Flemish, and is believed to be unknown to the world, outside of Antwerp literary circles. I wish to thank Her Excellency, Madame Havenith, wife of the Belgian Minister in the United States, for information, letters and photographs, and Mrs. Abbot L. Dow, whose father, General Sanford, was one of the most popular American Ministers ever in Belgium, as well as Miss Helen North, who lived for many years in that beautiful country. I wish, also, to thank the _National Magazine_ for the use of a portion of the chapter on Motoring in Flanders. My thanks are due to Miss Gilman and Miss Crosby, too, for their kind assistance. CONTENTS CHAPTER FOREWORD I. THE NEW POST II. DIPLOMATIC LIFE III. BRUSSELS BEFORE THE WAR IV. IN DAYS OF KNIGHT AND VILLAIN V. BATTLING FOR A KINGDOM VI. BELGIAN KINGS VII. POLITICS AND PLURAL VOTING VIII. BELGIUM'S WORKSHOPS IX. TAPESTRIES X. PRIMITIVES AND LATER PAINTERS XI. LA JEUNE BELGIQUE IN LETTERS XII. MOTORING IN FLANDERS XIII. LEGENDS OF ANTWERP XIV. IN THE WALLOON COUNTRY XV. A LAST WORD I SYNOPSIS OF THE WAR