The Spell of Flanders: An Outline of the History, Legends and Art of Belgium's Famous Northern ProvincesVose, Edward Neville
History
The Spell of Flanders: An Outline of the History, Legends and Art of Belgium's Famous Northern Provinces
Vose, Edward Neville
Flanders -- Description and travel
Like most religious structures in Belgium, the cathedral was for many
years surrounded, and almost entirely obscured, by small private
houses of all kinds built up against it. These have now been removed,
although there are still a few more that we were told were destined to
come down in order to give a better view of the structure from one
side. There are three entrances, of which two are noteworthy. One of
these, called the Porte Mantille, is on the north side facing the
Place des Acacias, and dates from the twelfth century. It is the
oldest part of the exterior, and looks it, the round arch of the
doorway being surrounded by quaint Romanesque sculptures. The winds of
seven hundred winters have worn these bas-reliefs down considerably,
but they are still surprisingly clear, the faces, armour and costumes
of the figures being quite distinct. They are among the oldest stone
carvings in Europe and show that the art of sculpture was practised
at Tournai within a century or two after the retirement of the
Norsemen.
Even more interesting is the fine façade just behind the groined porch
that faces the Place de l'Evêché. From a distance this end of the
cathedral is hardly pleasing, the sixteenth-century porch concealing
the early Romanesque façade and being out of harmony with it. After
passing within the arches, however, the visitor forgets all this and
is lost in wonder and admiration at the wealth of stone carving that
decorates the walls on both sides of the main entrance. There is no
such decoration in stone to be seen in all Flanders, for the churches
of Tournai escaped the fury of the iconoclasts--Tournai, at that time,
belonging to France. Here the sculptors of Tournai have achieved a
veritable masterpiece. The work is in three tiers and belongs to three
different periods. The lowest tier, carved in blue stone quarried in
Tournai itself or near by, is the most remarkable, and is regarded by
the critics as the finest in artistic merit. It dates from the
thirteenth century and represents Adam and Eve and various prophets
and fathers of the church. The second zone is in white stone, now grey
with age, and was the work of the sixteenth century. It comprises a
series of small panels carved in bas-relief, those at the left
depicting--so the authorities at Tournai tell us--a religious
procession, and those at the right various incidents in the history of
King Childeric. The highest tier comprises a series of large statues
in high relief of the apostles, the Virgin Mary, St. Piat and St.
Eleuthereus. Although the figures are boldly conceived and well
executed, and, in the main, fairly well preserved, they are
artistically less important than the others. In its entirety, however,
this entrance--"_le portail_," "_the_ entrance," as the people of
Tournai style it--is a place of wonderful interest, a place to be
visited again and again under different lights and in different moods.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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