The Spell of Flanders: An Outline of the History, Legends and Art of Belgium's Famous Northern ProvincesVose, Edward Neville
History
The Spell of Flanders: An Outline of the History, Legends and Art of Belgium's Famous Northern Provinces
Vose, Edward Neville
Flanders -- Description and travel
Passing into the interior of the cathedral the visitor is again given
the impression that here he is not in one church but at least two and
possibly more. The ancient nave, with its vaulted roof supported by
three series of Romanesque arches placed one above another, seems
somehow to be complete by itself and to have no relation to the
far-off choir which is partially cut off from it by an elaborately
carved rood loft, which--in its flamboyant Renaissance style--seems
out of place and tends to mar the general effect of the vast
interior. The pillars in the nave are not uniform, but have a wide
diversity of capitals--some decorated with the lotus or conventional
foliage, others with beasts or birds or quaint, fantastic heads. At
the intersection of the nave and transept the great pillars supporting
the central tower are of tremendous proportions and the view looking
upward from this point is one of extraordinary grandeur. Here, too,
the rood loft, or _jubé_, can be studied to best advantage. The work
of Corneille Floris of Antwerp and executed in 1572, it is undoubtedly
one of the masterpieces of sculpture of its period. The Doric columns
are of red marble, the architectural outlines of the structure in
black marble, and the medallions and other bas-reliefs in white.
Passing through one of the three arches of this portal we come to the
noble choir. This is the most beautiful portion of the cathedral, its
vast height and the richly coloured light that streams downward from
its fine stained-glass windows creating a very atmosphere of majesty
and inspiration.
While we were inspecting the choir and the ambulatory, which contains
several paintings and carvings of no little interest, the Professor
discovered that the hours had been slipping by faster than we had
imagined and as there were several relics of the earliest period of
the city's history that we wished to visit on our first day we decided
to betake ourselves to the Grande Place and postpone our visit to the
far-famed treasury of the cathedral to another day. We found a little
place to dine directly facing the Belfry, and with the Princess of
Epinoy, in her coat of mail and brandishing her battle-axe, standing
on her monument hard by. The Place is a very large one, but most of
the houses facing it have been so modernized as to lose much of their
mediæval aspect, although the ancient Cloth Hall--which has recently
been restored--no doubt looks much as it did when in its prime.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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