The Spell of Flanders: An Outline of the History, Legends and Art of Belgium's Famous Northern ProvincesVose, Edward Neville
History
The Spell of Flanders: An Outline of the History, Legends and Art of Belgium's Famous Northern Provinces
Vose, Edward Neville
Flanders -- Description and travel
In fact these queer little one-story houses abound in all parts of the
city, and the Madame was constantly darting across the roadway to peer
within whenever she saw a door ajar. She generally returned highly
indignant that any one could think of existing in such narrow
quarters. "I'd as soon live in a tomb!" she exclaimed, nodding in the
direction of one little house which consisted of one room and only
one, being devoid even of the attic room with its customary dormer
window. Inside sat an old lady, gazing tranquilly out of doors and
doing nothing whatever. Indeed, as the Madame pointed out, there was
little enough to do as far as housework was concerned. In the morning
everybody in Flanders washes the stone floors of their living-rooms,
and frequently the sidewalk and out to the middle of the street as
well. This done, the housework for the day is over, except for
preparing the meals. We had hoped to see old ladies by the score
sitting at the doorways making lace, but on only one street--the rue
du Rouleau--did we catch a glimpse of any, and they went indoors as we
approached them. It was only the estaminets that we could inspect
within. Whenever we found what appeared to be an exceptionally old
house that bore the legend "Hier Verkoopt men drank" the Professor
and I often used to go in and order a glass of _Vieux système_, simply
to get a look at the interior. If, as sometimes happened, mijnheer and
his vroue were very accommodating and kind, we summoned the
ladies--despite the fact that the sign without appeared to mean "for
men only"--and together we explored the old house from garret to
cellar.
More than once, as we journeyed about among these delightfully old and
quaint surroundings, the longing to see some one whose costume would,
in a measure, suggest the period when these structures were built came
back to us. "Oh!" exclaimed Mrs. Professor, as we sat one afternoon in
a particularly cosy corner of one of the oldest interiors we had yet
seen, "if two or three knights in armour--or in their lovely costumes
of velvet, silk and old lace--would stalk in and sit down at that
table over there it would make the picture complete." We found,
however, one spot in Bruges, dating from the twelfth century, in which
even the costumes were unchanged. This was the Béguinage, close to the
Minnewater and the ancient city ramparts--a city of the past where,
shut off by high brick walls from the noise and bustle of the outer
world, peaceful figures clad in sombre grey and white move noiselessly
about as if the big figures on the calendar read 1114 instead of 1914.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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