The Spell of Flanders: An Outline of the History, Legends and Art of Belgium's Famous Northern ProvincesVose, Edward Neville
History
The Spell of Flanders: An Outline of the History, Legends and Art of Belgium's Famous Northern Provinces
Vose, Edward Neville
Flanders -- Description and travel
On the 2nd of May every year from 1303 until now--save for a brief
interruption during the stormy times of the French Revolution--the
city of Bruges has celebrated its possession of this holy relic by the
great Procession of the Holy Blood. At first simply a religious
ceremony, the procession gradually took on spectacular features such
as the Flemings love, including representations of the Apostles, the
Nativity, King Herod, and so on. At present _La Noble Confrerie du
Precieux Sang_, or Honourable Society of the Holy Blood, is a very
wealthy and aristocratic organisation, even its affiliated members--of
whom there are several thousands, of every nationality--esteeming
their connection with it a great honour.
During the French Revolution mobs stripped the chapel of everything
that could be torn down or broken, leaving it such a wreck that the
municipal authorities were considering tearing it down, but were
happily prevented from doing so by Napoleon. The lower chapel was,
however, used as a jail for drunken and disorderly persons--and even
as a pound for stray dogs--until 1818. The upper chapel meanwhile was
roofless and windowless, a sad wreck of so ancient and famous a
structure. Both have since been restored, the lower--or Chapel of St.
Basil--being now just as it was in 1150, and, in the opinion of many
critics, "the most beautiful and perfect specimen of Romanesque
architecture in Europe." We had already inspected the lower chapel
while exploring the Vieux Bourg of Baldwin of the Iron Arm our first
day at Bruges, but had not spent much time in the upper one. Here the
most interesting object was naturally the chasse, or casket,
containing the holy relic after which the chapel is named. This is on
one side of the little museum of the chapel and is of silver-gilt,
standing four feet, three inches high. It was made in 1617 by a
silversmith of Bruges and, while not regarded as a masterpiece of its
kind, is very graceful and elegant. The chapel itself is richly
decorated and has some excellent stained glass windows, all of this
work dating from the middle of the last century.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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