On the other hand, while news of the damage done to some famous Flemish church or Hotel de Ville causes the author sensations akin to those that he would experience on learning of the wounding of a friend, this book will contain no complaint regarding German destruction of these monuments of architecture. At Ypres and Malines, where the havoc wrought cannot fail to have been fearful, the damage was done in the course of battles in which the most powerful engines of destruction ever invented by man were used on both sides. Much as we may deplore the results, we cannot blame the individual commanders. At Antwerp, Ghent, Bruges and many other famous Flemish cities the Germans appear to have made every effort to avoid wanton destruction and preserve the most notable historic edifices. After the war is over and we have learned exactly what structures have been destroyed, and under what circumstances, we can justly place whatever blame may attach to such a catastrophe where it belongs--but not until then. For the present we can only hope that the damage may be less than has been reported, and that in many instances it will be possible for the Belgians--so skilful in the work of restoration--to reconstruct the sections of famous buildings that have been damaged. When the war is over many thousands of Americans and English will be eager to visit the battle-fields of Flanders and see for themselves the scenes of conflicts that will forever hold a great place in human history. The author ventures to hope that this little book may be found serviceable to such tourists as it contains much information not to be found in any guide book. If it aids any of them--or any of the far larger host of travellers whose journeys in far-off lands must be made by their home firesides--to understand Flanders better it will have achieved its purpose. It is one of the many ironies of the war that towns like Ypres and Malines, which were rarely visited by American tourists when they were in their perfection, will, no doubt, be visited by thousands now that the clash of arms has brought them at the same moment destruction and immortal fame. EDWARD NEVILLE VOSE. CONTENTS CHAPTER PAGE PUBLISHERS' NOTE vii FOREWORD ix I. INTRODUCING FLANDERS AND THE FOUR PILGRIMS 1 II. VIEUX BRUGES AND COUNT BALDWIN OF THE IRON ARM 15 III. BRUGES IN THE DAYS OF CHARLES THE GOOD 30 IV. HOW BRUGES BECAME "THE VENICE OF THE NORTH" 54 V. DIXMUDE AND FURNES 78 VI. NIEUPORT AND THE YSER CANAL 94 VII. WHEN YPRES WAS A GREATER CITY THAN LONDON 116