The Spell of Flanders: An Outline of the History, Legends and Art of Belgium's Famous Northern ProvincesVose, Edward Neville
History
The Spell of Flanders: An Outline of the History, Legends and Art of Belgium's Famous Northern Provinces
Vose, Edward Neville
Flanders -- Description and travel
Right here it may be said that the Belgian State Railway did its best
to compensate us for whatever shortcomings we found in the weather or
in the country generally. Perfect its service can hardly be said to
have been, but it was excellent and amazingly cheap. Our party
purchased every two weeks _billets d'abonnement_ that cost us just
forty-one francs each, or about $8.00, and entitled us to ride on any
State-owned railway line in the country day or night for fifteen days.
These were second-class, the third costing twenty-three francs, and
first sixty francs. The last, by the way, is a useless luxury, as on
the local lines the first-class compartments are identical with the
second-class except for a white tidy placed at the back of the
cushions. Frequently there was not even the tidy, but the sign,
"_Reservé_--_Voorbehouden_," converted an ordinary second-class
compartment into first-class--a distinction that gave the traveller
very little for his money, save the privilege of riding alone.
On the main express routes that radiate outward from Brussels in every
direction there were a number of _rapides_, or fast express trains,
that made very good time indeed--a speed of a kilometre per minute
being about the average. On the international express trains, some of
which are first-class only, the speed was somewhat higher, but these
we never had occasion to use. After the _rapides_ came the express
trains, generally marked "_direct_" or "_semi-direct_," according to
whether or not they made any intermediate stops before reaching their
final destination. These were only moderately fast, and, if they did
stop anywhere, lingered so long that the time gained by their previous
speed was largely lost. Then came the type of local train called
_omnibus_ or _ordinaire_, that stopped at every station. To the
American these trains would seem astoundingly slow, even for a land
that is never in a hurry. Each stop is dragged out, minute after
minute, until it seems certain that either a terrible accident must
have occurred ahead, or the train crew has gone on strike. Actually,
more than once, we did see part of the crew returning from an
estaminet hard by whither they had gone to have a friendly glass.
Finally, however, the red-capped station master blows his whistle and
the train reluctantly pulls away. To make a trip of sixty kilometres
(forty miles) by one of these trains took, on more than one occasion,
two hours and a quarter, and the train arrived on time!
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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