The road runs away from the river to the little village of Darnick, with
its ivy-shrouded tower, across the meadows to the bridge across the
river, with the ringing of bells in the ear. For it was ordered on that
September day of 1832, by the Provost, "that the church bell shall toll
from the time the funeral procession reaches Melrose Bridge till it
passes the village of Newstead."
I do not suppose the people of this countryside, who look at modern
pilgrims so sympathetically, so understandingly, have ever had time to
forget; the stream of pilgrims has been so uninterrupted for nearly a
century. Through the market-place of Melrose it passed, the sloping
stony square, where people of the village pass and repass on their
little village errands. And it did not stop at the Abbey.
The day was thickening into dusk then; it is ripening into sunset glory
to-day. And the Abbey looks very lovely, and very lonely. And one
wonders if Michael Scot did not call to Walter Scott to come and join
the quiet there, and if the dust that once was the heart of Bruce did
not stir a little as the recreator of Scotland was carried by.
To the village of Newstead you move on; with the sound of immemorial
bells falling on the ear, and pass through the little winding
street--and wonder if the early Roman name of Trimontium, triple
mountains, triple Eildon, was its first call name out of far antiquity
as Scott believed.
Then the road ascends between hedgerows, and begins to follow the Tweed
closely--and perhaps you meet pilgrims on Leaderfoot bridge who have
come the wrong way. There is a steep climb to the heights of Bemersyde,
where on the crest all Melrose Glen lies beautifully storied before you.
And here you pause--as did those horses of Scott's, believing their
master would fain take one last look at his favourite view.
There is no lovelier landscape in the world, or in Scotland. The blue
line of the Cheviots bars back the world, the Dunion, the Ruberslaw, the
Eildon rise, and in the great bend of the river with richly wooded braes
about is the site of Old Melrose. Small wonder he paused to take
farewell of all the country he had loved so well.
The road leads on past Bemersyde village with woodlands on either side,
and to the east, near a little loch, stands Sandyknowe Tower.
Near the tower lies the remnant of the village of Smailholm, where Scott
was sent out of Edinburgh when only three years old. It is in truth his
birthplace, for without the clear air of the Border he would have
followed the other Scott children; and without the romance of the Border
he might have been merely a barrister.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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