was born at a little village nearby, back in the low hills of Tweed, in
1700, seven years before the Union.
_Jedburgh_
From Kelso I took train to the Border town which even the Baedeker
admits has had "a stormy past," and where the past still lingers; nay,
not lingers, but is; there is no present in Jedburgh. It is but ten
miles to the Border; more I think that at any other point in all the
blue line of the Cheviot, is one conscious of the Border; consciousness
of antiquity and of geography hangs over Jedburgh.
It lies, a hill town, on the banks of the Jed; "sylvan Jed" said
Thomson, "crystal Jed" said Burns; a smaller stream than the Tweed, more
tortuous, swifter, rushing through wilder scenery, tumultuous, vocative,
before Border times began--if ever there were such a time before--and
disputatious still to remind us that this is still a division in the
kingdom.
One of the most charming walks in all Scotland--and I do not know of any
country where foot-traveler's interest is so continuous (I wrote this
before I had read the disastrous walking trip of the Pennell's)--is up
this valley of the Jed a half dozen miles, where remnants of old forest,
or its descendants, still stand, where the bracken is thick enough to
conceal an army crouching in ambush, where the hills move swiftly up
from the river, and break sharply into precipices, with crumbling peel
towers, watch towers, to guard the heights, and where outcropping red
scars against the hill mark sometimes the entrance to caves that must
have often been a refuge when Border warfare tramped down the valley.
In Jedburgh we lodged not at the inn; although the name of Spread Eagle
much attracted us; but because every one who had come before us had
sought lodging, we, too, would "lodge," if it be but for a night.
Mary Queen had stayed at an old house, still standing in Queenstreet,
Prince Charles at a house in Castlegate, Burns in the Canongate, the
Wordsworths, William and Dorothy, in Abbey Close, because there was no
room in the inn. I do not know if it were the Spread Eagle then, but the
assizes were being held, Jethart justice was being administered, or,
juster justice, since these were more parlous times, and parley went
before sentence. Scott as a sheriff and the other officials of the
country were filling the hostelry. But Sir Walter, then the Sheriff of
Selkirk, sheriff being a position of more "legality" than with us, and
no doubt remembering his first law case which he had pled at Jedburgh
years before, came over to Abbey Close after dinner, and according to
Dorothy Wordsworth "sate with us an hour or two, and repeated a part of
the 'Lay of the Last Minstrel.'"
Think of not knowing whether it was an hour or two hours, with Scott
repeating the "Lay," and in Jedburgh.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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