The sentimental journeymen--with whom I count myself openly--may
hesitate to visit Yarrow. It lies so near the Melrose country, and is so
much a part of that, in song and story, that it would seem like leaving
out the fragrance of the region to omit Yarrow. And yet--. One has read
"Yarrow Unvisited," one of the loveliest of Wordsworth's poems. And one
has read "Yarrow Visited." And the conclusion is too easy that if the
unvisitings and visitings differ as much as the poems it surely were
better not to "turn aside to Yarrow," to accept it as
"Enough if in our hearts we know
There's such a place as Yarrow....
For when we're there although 'tis fair,
'Twill be another Yarrow."
There is peril at times in making a dream come true, in translating the
dream into reality, in lifting the mists from the horizon of
imagination. Should one hear an English skylark, an Italian nightingale?
should one see Carcassonne, should one visit Yarrow?
Ah, welladay. I have heard, I have seen. Just at first, because no
dream can ever quite come true, not the dream of man in stone, or of
song in bird-throat, or even of nature in trees and sky and hills, there
is a disappointment. But after the reality these all slip away into the
misty half-remembered things, even Carcassonne, even Yarrow; the dream
enriched by the vision, the vision softened again into dream.
And so, I will down into Yarrow.
Coaches run, or did before the war, and will after the war, through the
pleasant dales of Yarrow and Moffat, dales which knew battles long ago
and old unhappy far off things, but very silent now, too silent; almost
one longs for a burst of Border warfare that the quiet may be filled
with fitting clamour. The coaches meet at Tibbie Shiel's on St. Mary's
and it is to Tibbie's that you are bound, as were so many gallant
gentlemen, especially literary gentlemen, before you.
Selkirk is the starting point. And Selkirk is a very seemly, very
prosperous town, looking not at all like an ecclesiastic city, as it
started to be in the dear dead days of David the saint, looking very
much as a hill city in Italy will look some day when Italy becomes
entirely "redeemed" and modern, and exists for itself instead of for
the tourist. Selkirk is indifferent to tourists, as indeed is every
Scottish town; Scotland and Scotsmen are capable of existing for
themselves. Selkirk hangs against the hillside above the Ettrick, and
its show places are few; the spot where Montrose lodged the night before
the defeat at Philipshaugh, the statue of Scott when he was sheriff,
"shirra," the statue of Mungo Park near where he was given his medical
training, and the home of Andrew Lang.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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