EARL'S PALACE, KIRKWALL 240 INVERGARRY CASTLE 248 KILCHURN CASTLE 258 AROS CASTLE 265 ENTRANCE TO FINGAL'S CAVE 267 CATHEDRAL OF IONA AND ST. MARTIN'S CROSS 273 DUMBARTON CASTLE 282 LOCH KATRINE 289 THE BRIG O' TURK 294 THE TROSSACHS (_in full colour_) 296 STIRLING CASTLE (_in full colour_) 304 DOUNE CASTLE 310 PORTRAIT OF THOMAS CARLYLE, BY WHISTLER 317 AYR RIVER (_in full colour_) 322 BURNS' COTTAGE, BIRTH-PLACE OF ROBERT BURNS, AYR 328 CAERLAVEROCK CASTLE 333 [Illustration: SCOTLAND] THE SPELL OF SCOTLAND CHAPTER I HAME, HAME, HAME! "It's hame, and it's hame, hame fain wad I be, And it's hame, hame, hame, to my ain countree!" Time was when half a hundred ports ringing round the semi-island of Scotland invited your boat to make harbour; you could "return" at almost any point of entry you chose, or chance chose for you. To-day, if you have been gone for two hundred and fifty years, or if you never were "of Scotia dear," except as a mere reading person with an inclination toward romance, you can make harbour after a transatlantic voyage at but one sea-city, and that many miles up a broad in-reaching river. Or, you can come up the English roads by Carlisle or by Newcastle, and cross the Border in the conquering way, which never yet was all-conquering. There is shipping, of course, out of the half hundred old harbours. But it is largely the shipping that goes and comes, fishing boats and coast pliers and the pleasure boats of the western isles.