James Howell, carries a thin portfolio as he travels the highway. But we
must remember that he wrote his "Perfect Description of the People and
Country of Scotland" in the Fleet.
Here is Doctor Johnson, in a post chaise. Of course, Sir! "Mr. Boswell,
an active lively fellow is to conduct me round the country." And he's
still a lively conductor. Surely you can see the Doctor, in his high
boots, and his very wide brown cloth great coat with pockets which might
be carrying two volumes of his folio dictionary, and in his hand a large
oak staff. One tries to forget that years before this journey he had
said to Boswell, "Sir, the noblest prospect that a Scotchman ever sees
is the highroad that leads him to London." And, was there any malice in
Boswell's final record--"My illustrious friend, being now desirous to be
again in the great theater of life and animated existence"?
The poet Gray preceded him a little, and even John Wesley moves along
the highroad seeking to save Scottish souls as well as English. A few
years afterward James Hogg comes down this way to visit his countryman,
Tammas Carlyle in London; who saw Hogg as "a little red-skinned stiff
rock of a body with quite the common air of an Ettrick shepherd."
There is Scott, many times, from the age of five when he went to Bath,
till that last journey back from Italy--to Dryburgh! And Shadowy Jeanie
Deans comes downward, walking her "twenty-five miles and a bittock a
day," to save her sister from death.
Disraeli comes up this way when he was young and the world was his
oyster. Stevenson passes up and down, sending his merry men up and down.
And one of the most native is William Winter--"With a quick sense of
freedom and of home, I dashed across the Border and was in Scotland."
There is a barricade of the Cheviots stretching across between the two
countries, but the Romans built a Wall to make the division more
apparent. In the dawn of the centuries the Romans came hither, and
attempting to come to Ultima Thule, Picts and Scots--whatever they were,
at least they were brave--met the Romans on the Border, as yet
unreported in the world's history and undefined in the world's
geography, and sent them back into what is England. The Romans in single
journeys, and in certain imperial attempts, did penetrate as far as
Inverness. But they never conquered Scotland. Only Scotland of all the
world held them back. And in order to define their defeat and to place
limits to the unlimited Roman Empire, the Great Wall was built, built by
Hadrian, that men might know where civilization, that splendid thing
called Roman civilization, and barbarism did meet. Scotland was
barbarism. And I think, not in apology but in all pride, she has
remained something of this ever since. Never conquered, never subdued.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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