The spell of the heart of France: the towns, villages and châteaux about ParisHallays, André
History
The spell of the heart of France: the towns, villages and châteaux about Paris
Hallays, André
France -- Description and travel; France -- History
In what house was Racine born? The accepted tradition is that his mother
was brought to bed at No. 3, Rue de la Pescherie (now Rue Saint-Vaast);
in this house lived the Sconin couple, the father and mother of Madame
Racine. The old house has been demolished, and there remains of it
nothing more than a pretty medallion of stone which represents the
_Judgment of Paris_. This is inserted above a door in the garden of the
new house. But, in the same street, there stands another house (No. 14)
which belonged to the paternal grandparents of Jean Racine; it is here,
according to other conjectures, that the author of _Athalie_ was born.
And these two houses are not the only ones at La Ferté which dispute the
honor of having seen the birth of Racine.... I will not get mixed up
in the search for the truth. I have heard that the people of Montauban
recently had recourse to an ingenious means of ending a quarrel of the
same kind. No one knew in which house Ingres had been born; a furious
controversy had arisen between various proprietors of real estate. It
was ended by a referendum. Universal suffrage gave its decision. Now the
question is decided, irrevocably.
[Illustration: 0059]
There is another monument to the poet. Behind the apse of the church, in
a little square, on top of a column, is perched an old bust more or
less roughly repaired; at its foot has been placed a tawdry cast-iron
hydrant. This is called the Racine Fountain. Decidedly La Ferté is a
poor place of pilgrimage: few relics, and the images of the saint are
not beautiful!
Fortunately, to recompense the pilgrim, there are in the two churches
precious stained glass windows of the sixteenth century; those of Notre
Dame, despite grievous restorations, are brilliant in coloring and
free in design. The _Saint Hubert_ is a good picture of almost Germanic
precision, and, above the right-hand altar, the portraits of the donors
and their children are natural and graceful. Above all, there is the
admirable façade of the old castle of Louis of Orleans, an enormous
crenelated fortress, flanked with towers, whose naked grandeur is set
off by sculptures, marvelous but mutilated, alas! There are statues of
armed champions framed in elegant foliage, and, above the arch of
the great door, the celebrated _Coronation of the Virgin_, one of the
masterpieces of French sculpture; a cast of it can be studied at the
Trocadero, and there we can admire at full leisure the truth of the
attitudes and the freedom of the draperies. But no one can imagine the
beauty of this composition, unless he has seen it relieved against and
shining from the ferocious wall of the citadel, colored with the golden
green of mosses, while tufts of yellow wallflowers, growing among the
delicate carvings of the wide frame, give an exquisite sumptuousness to
the whole decoration.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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