The spell of the heart of France: the towns, villages and châteaux about ParisHallays, André
History
The spell of the heart of France: the towns, villages and châteaux about Paris
Hallays, André
France -- Description and travel; France -- History
The comparison between Livry and Grignan recurs incessantly in her
letters, as we have seen. Without doubt she is thinking principally of
the health of her daughter when she curses the north wind of Provence
and "this sharp and frosty air which pierces the most robust." But, at
the same time, how clearly we see that to the harsh and rocky sites of
the Midi she prefers northern nature, more gentle, more smiling, and
to "this devil of a Rhone, so proud, so haughty, so turbulent," the
"beautiful Seine" whose gracious banks are "ornamented with houses,
trees, little willows, little canals, which we cause to issue from this
great river!" On another occasion she writes: "How excessive you are
in Provence! All is extreme, your torridities, your calms, your north
winds, your rains out of season, your thunders in autumn: there is
nothing gentle nor temperate. Your rivers are out of their banks, your
fields drowned and furrowed. Your Durance has almost always the devil
in its bosom; your Isle of Brouteron very often submerged." (November 1,
1679.)
In the last years of her life, she ended by pardoning Provence for its
north wind and its sharp air; one winter, she will even decide that
the mountains covered with snow are charming, and she will wish that
a painter might reproduce these frightful beauties. And it will be not
only the joy of living near her daughter which will cause her thus to
abjure her tastes of aforetime, but also the softness of the sun and of
the light. There are no old people who can resist this sorcery. In the
last letters written to Grignan there is no longer a mention of Livry.
We would like to, find today in the house and the garden of the old
abbey some trace of the sojourn of Madame de Sévigné; but everything has
been upset since the end of the eighteenth century.
Here is the dwelling house constructed by the Abbé de Coulanges, in
which Madame de Sévigné dwelt. Where was the apartment of the Marquise?
In a letter of August 12, 1676, she says: "We have made a casement
opening on the garden in the little cabinet, which takes away all the
damp and unhealthy air which was there, and which gives us extreme
pleasure; it does not make the room warm, for only the rising sun visits
it for an hour or two...." The indication is precise. We are oriented,
and we recognize very nearly the position of the little cabinet. But
was this on the first or second floor? It is impossible to discover any
indication. And we walk about soberly in the apartments, deserted since
the departure of the Assumptionists: some abandoned books, collections
of sermons, rest on a shelf of the library; old priests' hats lie on the
floor; a béret lies on a corner of a table, a great map of Paris in the
eighteenth century hangs askew upon a wall; the breeze blows through the
windows whose panes are broken....
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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