The spell of the heart of France: the towns, villages and châteaux about ParisHallays, André
History
The spell of the heart of France: the towns, villages and châteaux about Paris
Hallays, André
France -- Description and travel; France -- History
The church of Thourotte--it is of the twelfth century, but has lost
much of its character--contains a fine altar screen of gilded wood,
representing the different scenes of the Passion. It is said to be
Flemish work; judging by the types of certain personages, this might
be doubted; but the shutters which close upon the screen bear paintings
whose origin is not in the least doubtful. Poor paintings, whose
restoration was confided by a too-zealous curate to a pitiable dauber!
Now, the Commission of Historic Monuments has fisted the beautiful
sculptures and has put them under glass: the effect of this is
abominable, but we live among barbarians and second-hand dealers, and we
are actually forced to put our works of art under lock and key to defend
them. As for the painted shutters, they are hung up on the wall: a
few were spared by the dauber. In the same church we may still see two
beautiful altars supported by torsos of the seventeenth century. How
many beautiful works of art still remain in our little churches of
France, in spite of revolutions and dealers in antiques!
The Cistercian abbey of Ourscamp is now a cotton spinning mill. Behind
a magnificent iron fence stretch vast buildings of the seventeenth
century. In the center rises a grand pavilion. We pass through an open
door between the high columns which support the balcony of the upper
story, and suddenly discover that this immense construction is a mere
veneer to hide the old church of the monastery. Of the nave there is no
longer anything remaining; but a little farther on, in the midst of
the park, the choir still lifts its arches of magnificently pure
architecture. The roof has fallen, but the columns and the walls still
stand. It is a picture like that of the church of Long-pont, in the
forest of Villers-Cotterets. (There is also great similarity between
the architecture of Longpont and that of Ourscamp.) It seems that the
intimate beauty of Gothic art is better revealed to us when we thus
discover the ruin of one of its masterpieces among the trunks and
branches of trees; we then can better feel the living grace of its
columns and the freedom of its arches.... There is so much truth in this
admirable page from the _Génie du christianisme_: "The forests of the
Gauls have passed in their turn into the temples of our fathers, and our
forests of oak have thus maintained their sacred origin. These vaults
carved into foliage, these jambs which support the walls and end
suddenly like broken trunks, the coolness of the vaults, the darknesses
of the sanctuary, the obscure wings, the secret passages, the lowly
doorways, all retrace the labyrinths of the woods in the Gothic church:
everything makes us feel in it religious horror, mysteries and divinity,
etc...." The centuries have accomplished their work, and, in the ruins
of the edifice, which is surrounded and invaded by the verdure of the
forest, we recognize still better what art learns from nature. [13]
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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