The spell of the heart of France: the towns, villages and châteaux about ParisHallays, André
History
The spell of the heart of France: the towns, villages and châteaux about Paris
Hallays, André
France -- Description and travel; France -- History
Morienval, with its three towers, its triple nave, and its ambulatory,
is a beautiful church. In the interminable controversies which have
raged over the date and the place of the origin of the Gothic style,
Morienval has been cited a hundred times, and it has been much discussed
because of its ambulatory, which is vaulted with pointed arches and
which certain historians affirm to have been built in the middle of the
'eleventh century.... I do not know. But what I know well, is that, in
future controversies, one will do well to hold to the texts and to the
drawings, and not to attempt to reason from the monument itself; for
this exists no longer, or at least it is restored, which amounts to the
same thing. Yes, they have restored the ambulatory of Morienval,
and they have not half restored it, I can assure you. For they have
completely recarved certain capitals.... It is truly a singular
spectacle to see in the twentieth century so many stone carvers
occupied, some in producing Romanesque, others Gothic, and still others
classical architecture. It is also diverting to think of the mistakes
into which future archaeologists will fall, led astray by all these
copies. But, in spite of all, as it is the old monuments which pay
for these debauches of sculpture, as it is at the expense of their
conservation that this fury of restoration is exercised, we would
willingly renounce these ironical joys. Oh, if the restorers would only
consecrate each year to the placing of tiles or slates the sums which
they squander in having capitals recarved!
Since the fancy of this archaeological excursion has taken me into the
valley of the Authonne, a pretty name for a pretty brook, I desire to
see that chateau of Vez which its owner, M. Dru, recently bequeathed to
the nation. It is a magnificent fortress on the summit of a wooded hill.
The donjon and the encircling wall have been skillfully restored. Of the
main body of the building, of which only ruins remain, a part only was
rebuilt by M. Dru.... Will the nation accept the legacy? I hope so,
because it appears that M. Dru left a sum sufficient to finish the work.
This sort of archaeological restitution seems to me very unnecessary; it
would be far better to leave such things to theatrical scene builders.
But it is not necessary to discourage the worthy who diminish the
profits of the house wreckers by bequeathing their castles to the
public.
Irony of geographical names! At the foot of the hill which sustains the
donjon of Vez, we see, in the midst of the fields, a Gothic church of
the flamboyant period, remnant of a Premonstraten-sian monastery. It
is now used as a farmstead. Ï consult my map to know the name of the
hamlet: it is called _Lieu-Restauré _(Restored Place).
I took the road back to Paris through the great plains of Valois,
overlooked by the sublime spire of the cathedral of Senlis.
IX. GALLARDON
[Illustration: 0207]
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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