The spell of the heart of France: the towns, villages and châteaux about ParisHallays, André
History
The spell of the heart of France: the towns, villages and châteaux about Paris
Hallays, André
France -- Description and travel; France -- History
Today the remnants of the little edifice still remain. And they have not
even the appearance of a ruin, but the piteous aspect of a demolition.
Thus has been destroyed a truly beautiful grouping, and the cathedral,
quite contrary to good sense, has been isolated from the ancient
bishopry to permit the people of Noyon to walk all around their church.
At least, this is the only benefit they have received from it.
Before the east front of the church lies a little square surrounded by
the tranquil and substantial homes of the canons. Upon the piers of each
door, great vases swell their paunches and project their stone flames:
this is the leit motiv of the eighteenth century. The canons for whom
these beautiful homes were constructed had only to cross the parvis to
enter the cathedral. This rises before their houses with its massive
towers, which are not crowned by spires, but in which the mixture of the
plain arch with the pointed marks the originality of the building. The
vast porch, with three doorways whose sculptures were sacked by the
Revolutionists and then by the administrators of the Restoration,
preserves an inimitable majesty....
*****
The exterior of this church charmed us especially by its
picturesqueness; within, it gives us an impression of perfect beauty.
It ravishes us at first by the balance of its different parts, by the
justness of its proportions. Its plan is a masterpiece. In almost all
our cathedrals we admire the choir, then we admire the nave; if we wish
to take in the whole edifice at a single glance, we are still astonished
by its grandeur and majesty, but our eye no longer experiences the same
delight nor our mind the same satisfaction. If we take up a position at
the entrance of Notre Dame de Noyon, in that species of vestibule which
opens on the first bay of the nave and which here rises to the height
of the vaulting, we have before us an absolutely harmonious work. The
glance can travel as far as the apse without being arrested by any
discordance. There is, I believe, no Gothic church where the dimensions
of the nave correspond in so happy a fashion to the dimensions of the
choir. The unity of the monument is incomparable. The choir seems to
be the completion, the expansion of the long Gothic structure. The nave
seems to make its way to this circle of light, without haste, with a
tranquil and bold rhythm which is produced by the regular alternation of
its naked columns and its pilasters flanked by tiny pillars....
[Illustration: 0279]
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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