The spell of the heart of France: the towns, villages and châteaux about ParisHallays, André
History
The spell of the heart of France: the towns, villages and châteaux about Paris
Hallays, André
France -- Description and travel; France -- History
Then Bonnedame was wrong? I do not know, but, today, we must honor his
memory and recommend his example; for, if some one today decided to plan
to remove the Romanesque altar of the cathedral of Noyon, it would be
to substitute for it a Neo-Gothic altar, which would be abominable,
encumbering and out of place: on this point there is no doubt.
Godot's altar just escaped being treated by the Revolutionists as the
Gothic altar had been by the canons. A mason wished to break down this
monument of superstition. But a representative of the people interfered
and made this brute understand that what he thought were angels were
goddesses of love, that the bunches of grapes and the ears of wheat were
not the emblems of the Eucharist, but those of the cult of Ceres and of
Bacchus. The altar was spared and became that of the Goddess of Reason.
Persons who today still share the opinion of Bonnedame, will perhaps
find that the representative of the people did but reëstablish the
truth. Let us reprove such a manner of thought....
Of the cloister of the cathedral, there still remains only a single
gallery. The rest, very dilapidated, was tom down by the workmen of the
fabric of Notre Dame de Noyon in 1811.
On this gallery opens the great chapter hall, an admirable Gothic nave
where the restorers have done their work. In the cloister itself, their
zeal was more moderate and more discreet. They repaired the broken
roofs, bound with iron the falling columns, respected the breaches and
the breaks.
As the great walls on which the destroyed triforium rested still stand,
the aspect of the place has not changed, its intimate beauty has not
been violated. One may still enjoy there the eternal silence, shadow,
freshness and coolness.... One hears there only the droning of the
flies, while, in the midst of the area, a grand weeping willow shades an
old well with rusty iron fittings.
Under the cloister fragments of carving have been laid, and in this pile
of stones we discover with melancholy a few admirable fragments. Some
beautiful tombstones have been set up along the walls....
The afternoon is torrid. It is pleasant to linger under these arches
and deliver oneself to the pleasures of epigraphy. Let us decipher the
epitaphs.
Here is that of a Bishop of Noyon, M. Jean François de La Cropte de
Bourzac, who died January 23, 1766. Three distichs commemorate the
humility of the defunct, his piety, his devotion to the King. Below
these Latin verses, which are elegantly banal, we discover a name
which excites our curiosity: Gresset. It was, in fact, the author of
_Vert-Vert_ whom the canons retained to compose the epitaph of their
bishop. It is doubtful whether our Bonnedame, the enemy of Roman altars,
would have aided the poet in glorifying the virtues of M. Jean François
de La Cropte de Bourzac: for it was in fact under the rule of this
bishop that an abandoned architect undertook the new decoration of the
choir of the cathedral of Noyon.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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