It is a truism to say that shadows accompany light. What you feel, as
the truth of a people, has its numberless contradictions,--just as the
roundness of the earth is contradicted at every step by its hills and
hollows. Those who can boast of a greater familiarity with your country
than myself, can bring before me loads of contradictions, but I remain
firm upon my vision of a truth, which does not depend upon its
dimension, but upon its vitality.
At first, I had my doubts. I thought that I might not be able to see
Japan, as she is herself, but should have to be content to see the Japan
that takes an acrobatic pride in violently appearing as something else.
On my first arrival in this country, when I looked out from the balcony
of a house on the hillside, the town of Kobe,--that huge mass of
corrugated iron roofs,--appeared to me like a dragon, with glistening
scales, basking in the sun, after having devoured a large slice of the
living flesh of the earth. This dragon did not belong to the mythology
of the past, but of the present; and with its iron mask it tried to look
real to the children of the age,--real as the majestic rocks on the
shore, as the epic rhythm of the sea-waves. Anyhow it hid Japan from
my view, and I felt myself like the traveller, whose time is short,
waiting for the cloud to be lifted to have a sight of the eternal snow
on the Himalayan summit. I asked myself,--'Will the dense mist of the
iron age give way for a moment, and let me see what is true and abiding
in this land?' I was enveloped in a whirlwind of reception, but I had my
misgivings and thought that this might be a violent outbreak of
curiosity,--or that these people felt themselves bound to show their
appreciation of a man who had won renown from Europe, thus doing honour
to the West in a vicarious form.
But the clouds showed rifts, and glimpses I had of Japan where she is
true and more human. While travelling in a railway train I met, at a
wayside station, some Buddhist priests and devotees. They brought their
basket of fruits to me and held their lighted incense before my face,
wishing to pay homage to a man who had come from the land of Buddha. The
dignified serenity of their bearing, the simplicity of their
devoutness, seemed to fill the atmosphere of the busy railway station
with a golden light of peace. Their language of silence drowned the
noisy effusion of the newspapers. I felt that I saw something which was
at the root of Japan's greatness. And, since then, I have had other
opportunities of reaching the heart of the people; and I have come to
the conclusion, that the welcome which flowed towards me, with such
outburst of sincerity, was owing to the fact that Japan felt the
nearness of India to herself, and realised that her own heart has room
to expand beyond her boundaries and the boundaries of the modern time.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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