Here we are at the Canadian Headquarters, an 18th-century château whose walls are hung with early Flemish masters. "France sends us welcome guests." The man who gives us this genial reception is none other than General Byng, Commander-in-Chief of the Canadian detachment in France. He is a handsome fellow, slender, solidly built. In him an immense strength is found united to an exquisite courtesy. Hardly have we become his guests before he is showing his confidence in us by permitting us to share in his secrets. He has brought us in front of a huge map representing the field of his operations. On it he shows us, with a most worthy pride, the dispositions of all his divisions, brigades and battalions. While we are chatting, an officer of the Intelligence comes in. He has an unfortunate piece of news for the general, and so for us--the fall of Bucharest. "At dawn this morning," he says, "the Boches began cheering in their trenches. Then they pushed up above their parapets placards which told us that the Rumanian capital had been taken. Also, one of our listening-posts got a German wireless put purposely into English, which said: 'Bucharest is taken. Hurrah!'" For a serious moment or two we are silent. Then someone ventures: "That's a nuisance!" Another silence. The square jaws set a little more firmly. Then: "Carry on!" says our host. CHAPTER II. ARRAS, THE WOUNDED TOWN. While I was in the British lines I visited Arras. Everyone knows that since February of this year this ancient town has been included in that part of the front which is held by our Allies. Soldier or traveller, whoever enters the ruins of Arras, is subject to the strictest regulations, which have been imposed for the sake of the security of individuals and the preservation of the general order. The steel helmet is obligatory, as is the gas mask. Numerous notices instruct us "not to move about except upon the footpaths and hugging the walls. It is absolutely forbidden to use the middle of the roadway." A useful precaution in a town whose outskirts are held by the Germans. The town is divided into districts. On notice-boards are posted various directions such as, "Rendezvous Place No. 1." For there is no longer any Grande Place or Petit Place or any other spots whose names are known to the people of Arras--only Place 1, 2, 3, and so on. I have noted, in this connection, the following, as a novel example of organisation and forethought: "To civilians. You are not required to concern yourselves with military matters. If you talk about such things, you may come under suspicion." A civilian warned is a civilian armed.