“At maturity the cotton bolls open wide, and their flock bursts out in
soft flakes that are gathered by hand, boll by boll. The flock, well
dried in the sun on screens, is beaten with flails or, better, submitted
to the action of certain machines. It is thus freed from all seeds and
husks. Without any other preparation, cotton comes to us in large bales
to be converted into fabrics in our manufactories. The countries that
furnish the most of it are India, Egypt, Brazil, and, above all, the
United States of North America.
“In a single year the European manufactories work up nearly eight
hundred million kilograms of cotton. This enormous weight is not too
much, for the whole world clothes itself with the precious flock, turned
into print, percale, calico. Thus human activity has no greater field
than the cotton trade. How many workmen, how many delicate operations,
what long voyages, all for a simple piece of print costing a few
centimes! A handful of cotton is gathered, we will suppose, two or three
thousand leagues from here. This cotton crosses the ocean, goes a
quarter round the globe, and comes to France or England to be
manufactured. Then it is spun, woven, ornamented with colored designs,
and, converted into print, crosses the seas again, to go perhaps to the
other end of the world to serve as head-dress for some woolly-haired
negro. What a multiplicity of interests are brought into play! It was
necessary to sow the plant; then, for a good half of the year, to
cultivate it. Out of a handful of flock, then, provision must be made
for the remuneration of those who have cultivated and harvested. Next
come the dealer who buys and the mariner who transports it. To each of
them is due a part of the handful of flock. Then follow the spinner,
weaver, dyer, all of whom the cotton must indemnify for their work. It
is far from being finished. Now come other dealers who buy the fabrics,
other mariners who carry them to all parts of the world, and finally
merchants who sell them at retail. How can the handful of flock pay all
these interested ones without itself acquiring an exorbitant price?
“To accomplish this wonder two industrial powers intervene: work on a
large scale and the aid of machinery. You have seen how Ambroisine spins
wool on the wheel. The carded wool is first divided into long locks. One
of these locks is applied to a hook which turns rapidly. The hook seizes
the wool and in its rotation twists the fibers into one thread, which
lengthens little by little at the expense of the lock held and regulated
by the fingers. When the thread attains a certain length, Mother
Ambroisine rolls it on the spindle by a suitable movement of the wheel;
then she continues twisting the wool again.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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