Assisi is so much a place of one idea--of one interest--around which
everything has grown, that it is difficult to remember that a fairly
important town existed in Roman times, and that the Roman buildings,
still to be seen are, in the opinion of Mr Freeman, worth a visit even
if the church of San Francesco had never arisen. Some pleasant hours
may be passed finding the sites of pagan monuments, the remains of
ancient walls, and tracing the outline of the original town. In every
case we see how Roman Assisi has, in a very marked way, become part of
Mediæval Assisi, palaces having been erected upon the foundations of
Roman houses and Christian churches upon the sites of ancient temples.
The Temple of Hercules stood at the bend of Via S. Quirico (now Via
Garibaldi) where it turns up to the ancient palace of the Scifi; while
the Porta Mojano, near which old walls and part of an aqueduct can be
seen, took its name from a temple of Janus which stood between it and
the Vescovado. Standing a little off the Piazza Nuova, in a part of
the town known as the "Gorga," are the remains of the amphitheatre. It
would be difficult to find much of the original edifice, but houses
having been built exactly on the ancient site its shape has been
preserved, and this strange medley of old and new was thought worthy
of a doric entrance gate by Galeazzo Alessi. Much the same thing has
happened with many of the castles in the country near Assisi, where
the peasant houses are grouped round them in such a way that only by
penetrating into the midst of a tangled mass of dwellings can the
vestige of a tower be here and there discerned to remind us of its
former state. Assisi, though of no military importance at that time,
aspired to become a little Roman town even more perfect than her
neighbours on the hills. The broad and strongly built drain which
extends from near the Porta Perlici beneath the Piazza Nuova to the
garden behind San Rufino, is said to have been used to carry off the
water from the amphitheatre after the mimic sea-fights which in Roman
times were so popular. A use was found for all things, and in time of
war a Roman drain proved a most efficient means of escape, especially
when the Baglioni were raiding the town and putting to death all they
met upon their road.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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