Some small remains of a Roman theatre are to be seen near the
cathedral but so buried amidst a wild garden that it is difficult to
form any just idea of its extent. The most splendid piece of masonry,
a Roman cistern, lies beneath the campanile of the cathedral and can
be easily looked into by the light of a torch, the sacristan even
suggests a descent into its dark depths by means of a rickety ladder.
An inscription recording the proud fact that Assisi possessed an
amphitheatre has been removed to the cathedral where it is placed
above the side entrance to the left. Other large portions of Roman
walls are to be found at the back of a shop in the Via Portica and
also in the Via San Paolo; both are marked upon the map. In those days
the town seems to have been identical with what we now call old
Assisi, namely the quarter round San Rufino extending to the portion
round San Francescuccio where are noticed the arched Lombard windows.
But by far the most interesting record of this early age is the Temple
of Minerva, which in spite of the damage done when it was turned into
a church, and the way in which the mediæval buildings are crowded
round it, yet remains one of the most beautiful of ancient monuments.
The raising of the Piazza makes it difficult to realise, without going
below ground, how imposing the temple must have been when its steps
led straight down to the Forum. This can be reached by descending from
the Piazza into the "scavi," or excavations, where stands the great
altar with drains for the blood of the victims; the long inscription
giving the name of the donor of the Temple runs:
GAL. TETTIENVS PARDALAS ET TETTIENA GALENE TETTRASTILVM SVA PECVNIA
FECERVNT, ITEM SIMVLACRA CASTORIS ET POLLVCIS. MVNICIPIBVS
ASISINATIBVS DONO DEDER. ET DEDICATIONE EPVLVM DECVRIONIBVS SING. XV.
SEVIR. XIII. PLEBI X. DEDERVNT. S.C.L.D.
It is well known that Goethe went to Assisi solely to see the Temple,
and surprised the citizens by going straight down the hill again
without stopping to visit San Francesco. He wished to keep unimpaired
the impression this perfect piece of classical architecture had made
upon his mind, and we cannot refrain from translating his enthusiastic
description of it for these pages.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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