An enduring mark of St. Francis' influence is seen in the number of
confraternities established in Assisi which, if they have lost many of
their primitive customs, still retain a hold upon the people and are
the great feature of the town. Hardly a day passes without seeing
members either preparing for a service in one of their chapels, or
following a church procession, or carrying the dead along the cypress
walk from Porta S. Giacomo to the cemetery. Clothed in long grey
hooded cloaks, holding lanterns and candles and singing their mediæval
hymns, these citizens of the nineteenth century belong to Assisi of
the past as much as all her frescoes and early buildings. Their origin
goes back to the middle of the thirteenth century when, out of the
great devotional movement due to St. Francis, arose that strange body
of penitents the Flagellants, who are said to have first appeared in
Perugia, and thence spread throughout Italy.[107] "The movement," says
Dr Creighton, "passed away; but it left its dress as a distinctive
badge to the confraternities of mercy which are familiar to the
traveller in the streets of many cities of Italy." Assisi was among
the first to witness the hordes of fanatics who roamed from town to
town increasing as they passed like a swarm of locusts through the
land, and often at night going forth into the streets clothed in white
garments to dance a dance of the dead, clanging bones together as they
sang. It was inevitable that their passage through Assisi should have
its results, and many brotherhoods were founded; those who had no
chapels of their own met in S. Pietro or S. Maria delle Rose, where
they performed their penances, sometimes, as in the case of the
Battuti (Flagellants), beating themselves as they sang the wild,
love-inspired hymns of Jacopone da Todi, the franciscan poet of
Umbria. Since those days their fervour has taken a more practical
form, and very simple are their services.
[Illustration: CONFRATERNITY OF SAN FRANCESCUCCIO IN VIA GARIBALDI]
The members of _San Francescuccio_, or _Delle Stimate_, ever to and
fro upon some errand of mercy, belong to the most important
confraternity, and own one of the most picturesque chapels in the
towns. When its doors are open during early Mass or Benediction the
sound of prayer and chanting comes across the quiet road, and in the
blaze of candle-light is seen the great Crucifixion of Ottaviano Nelli
(?) in the lunette of the wall above the altar. At other times, the
chapel being so sunk below the level of the road with no windows to
light it, both fresco and the charming groined roof, blue as that of
San Francesco, can with difficulty be seen. The pent roof outside
overshadows some Umbrian frescoes by Matteo da Gualdo recording the
famous miracle of the roses which flowered for St. Francis in the
snow, and which he offered to the Virgin at the Altar of the
Portiuncula. On the wall to the right are some ruined frescoes in
terra-verde by a scholar of Matteo.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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