Another confraternity in this street is _San Crispino_, which once
possessed a picture by Niccolò Alunno, but that has long since
disappeared, and only faint patches of colour remain above its
gateway. There are many other confraternities, but as they do not all
possess pictures of interest, we only mention three others; and first
of these, the _Oratory of St. Anthony the Abbot_, or _Chiesa dei
Pellegrini_, which every visitor to Assisi ought to visit.[108] After
the Church of San Francesco it is by far the most important sight of
the town; a Lombard façade, a Roman temple, or a mediæval castle,
delightful and beautiful as they are, may be seen elsewhere, but we
know nothing with such individual charm as the little chapel of St.
Anthony, in the Via Superba. So often a hundred vicissitudes arrested
the adornment of a building during those troubled times of the middle
ages, but here we find a small and perfectly proportioned oratory
decorated with frescoes upon the ceiling and upon every wall, by two
Umbrian masters who have sought to make it a complete and perfect
sanctuary of Umbrian art.
Built in 1431 by the piety of the brotherhood of St. Anthony the
Abbot, it served as a private chapel to the adjoining hospital, where
pilgrims coming to pray at the shrine of St. Francis found food and
shelter for three days. The liberal donations given by Guidantonio,
Duke of Urbino and sometime Lord of Assisi, whose devotion to the
saint was great, may have enabled the confraternity to adorn it with
its many frescoes. Outside, in the arched niche above the door, are
the patrons of the chapel, St. Anthony and St. James of Campostello,
that great saint of pilgrims, with a frieze of small angels above them
playing upon various instruments, also by Matteo da Gualdo. To him we
owe the fair Madonna over the altar who gazes so dreamily before her,
and sits so straight upon her throne. Angels gather round bending
towards their instruments with earnest faces; Matteo's angels can
never only calmly pray, they must sing or else play on tambourines,
viole d'amore, cymbals and organs. Less pleasing are the large figures
of St. James and St. Anthony, while in contrast to them are the
slender winged figures on either side bearing tall candelabra, and
moving forward with such stately step, their white garments sweeping
in long folds behind them, their fair curls just ruffled by the air.
Surely Matteo must have been thinking of a group of babies at play in
the cornfields, or under the hedges near his own Umbrian town, when he
painted that frieze of laughing children, with little caps fitting so
closely round their heads, who are tossing the branches of red and
white roses up into the air. Each one is different, and all are full
of graceful movement. They divide the frescoes below from that of the
Annunciation, which recalls the manner of Boccatis da Camerino, the
master of Matteo. He paints a swallow, the bird of returning spring,
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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