Turning off from the Via Nuova to the left we mount still higher
through the olive groves along a path possessing no name, but which is
the nicest way to the heights above the town. We come in a few minutes
to the confraternity of _San Lorenzo_, standing somewhat below the
level of the castle. It has nothing of interest inside, but behind the
wooden covering of the gateway at the side is a fresco by an unknown
Umbrian artist, an Assisan perhaps, who above the Virgin's throne
signs himself "Chola Pictor." He paints the faces of his saints with a
smooth surface, betraying the influence of Simone Martini which he
felt together with many of his fellow Umbrian artists. The Virgin's
throne is full of wonderful ornaments; unfortunately the fresco has
suffered from a large crack across the wall. Very quaint is a group of
hooded members of the confraternity at her feet, and there is a
charming figure of St. Rufino, young, with an oval face and brown
eyes, but to be seen only from the top of a ladder as he is painted in
a corner of the arch. It has been suggested to remove this much-ruined
painting to the safer custody of the Municipio, but we hope this will
not occur, for, taken away from its gateway on the hillside, where the
redstarts build their nests and the evening sun lights up the colour
in the Virgin's face, its interest and charm would be lost.
THE CASTLE OR "LA ROCCA D'ASSISI"
Within her city walls Assisi possesses nothing wilder or more
beautiful than the undulating slopes which rise from the city up to
the Castle, where wild orchises grow among the grass, and the hedges
of acacia wind around the hill. The town lies so directly below, that
by stepping to the edge and looking across the white acacias, we can
only see a mass of brown roofs all purple at sundown, the tops of
towers and the battlements of gateways. Then there are places where
the grassy hillocks stand up so high that they hide the town
altogether, and we seem to be looking out upon the broad vista of the
valley from an isolated peak. At all times it is beautiful; but choose
a stormy day in springtime, when the clouds are driving upwards from
the plain only lately covered with mist, and the nearer hills are dark
their cities catching the late evening sunshine as it breaks through
the storm, while wind-swept Subasio looks bleak in the white light
showing here and there patches of palest green. And behind us,
cresting the hill, so near the town yet seen absolutely alone and
clear against the sky, rise the tower and the vast walls of the Rocca
d'Assisi, looking, not like a ruin crumbling beneath the constant
driving of wind and rain, but as though torn down in war-time, grand
in its destruction. It stands upon the site of an ancient burial
ground, where in remote times the Umbrian augurs came to watch for
omens from the heights of a tower that is said to have crowned the
summit. The legend of this building gave rise to the belief that a
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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