At the foot of the Clocher Neuf is the extremely elegant little
Renaissance clock tower, which was built by Jehan de Beauce in 1520,
when he had completely abandoned the Gothic style and adopted the
classic manner lately introduced by the Italian artists who had followed
Louis XII. and François I. into France. Partisans of pure Gothic may
call it mythological, mannered, mundane, but the more catholic lover of
the beautiful will not dismiss it so contemptuously. From this pavillon
de l’horloge there used to run alongside the nave up to the transept
some fourteenth-century buildings, which were demolished in 1860. They
served as a lodging for the Sœurs-cryptes, who, when the epidemic
known as the Mal des Ardents was scourging France in the eleventh and
twelfth centuries, had charge of the Hôpital des Saints-Lieux-Forts,
organised in the north gallery of the crypt to receive the crowds of
sufferers who flocked to the shrine of Notre-Dame-de-Sous-Terre. The
patients were received and nursed in this hospital for nine days and
then dismissed, healed or not.[76] From the fourteenth century onwards
the plague gradually decreased in intensity, cases became less and less
rare, and the staff of Sisters was finally reduced to one, known as La
Dame des Grottes.
We will leave for the present the exterior of the Cathedral and return
later to the consideration of the north and south porches. For it is
time to enter, by the western portal which we know, the sanctuary of
Notre-Dame. Here, amid the dim shadows of old dreams, the mystic may
indulge his fancy, and here, if anywhere, wandering through this
veritable gallery of Madonnas, in escaping from the feverish passions of
the world, a man may cool his hands awhile in the gray twilight of
Gothic things. More souls, they say, have been healed at Chartres than
bodies at Lourdes. In solitude and silence it is best; but wonderful
also and impressive is the Cathedral when filled with long trains of
pilgrims, whose shuffling feet and murmured prayers echo through the
vast nave and resound from the innumerable chapels. These sounds, these
sights carry us back in a flash of memory to those mediæval days when
Sébastien Rouillard was astonished at the crowds of all nations who
congregated here ‘and slept all night in the church or in the grottoes
for lack of lodgings.’ On the very threshold the sloping floor of the
west end of the nave, so made that it might the more easily be cleansed,
suggests that scene.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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