The condition of venison is judged chiefly by the fat, which should be
a clear creamy white color, and close in texture. Always try venison
by running a sharp knife along the haunch bone, which is usually the
first to turn; if, in taking it out, the knife has a blackish-green
look and an unpleasant odor, the meat is tainted, and unfit for use.
Venison requires to be kept a considerable time before it is in proper
condition, and needs great care in its management. It must be examined
carefully every day, and if there is the slightest doubt, it should
be washed in lukewarm milk and water, then dried in clean cloths, and
when perfectly dry, should be covered thickly all over with ground
ginger and pepper; when required for use, dust off the pepper and
ginger, and wash the meat in a little lukewarm water, and dry it
thoroughly. Venison, like mutton, improves with age, and this can be
judged by the condition of the hoof, which in a young animal has a
small, smooth cleft, while in an old one it is deeply cut and rugged.
The haunch is the prime joint, its perfection depending on the greater
or less depth of the fat on it. The neck and shoulder also are very
good. They are used chiefly for stews or pies.
Hares and Rabbits
A hare when fresh killed is stiff and red; when stale, the body is
supple and the flesh in many parts black. If the hare be old the
ears will be tough and dry, and will not tear readily. Rabbits may
be judged in the same manner. In both, the claws should be smooth and
sharp. In a young hare the cleft in the lip is narrow, and the claws
are cracked readily if turned sideways.
Poultry
Poultry to be perfect, should have just reached their full growth (the
only exceptions to this are "spring chickens," ducklings, goslings,
etc., which are considered delicacies at certain seasons); they should
be plump, firm fleshed, and not over fatted. Over-fed fowls are often
a mass of greasy fat, which melts in the cooking and spoils the flavor
of the bird. A hen is at her best just before she begins to lay; her
legs should be smooth, her comb small, bright, and soft. A young cock
has the comb full, bright colored, and smooth, the legs smooth, the
spurs short, and in both the toes should break easily when turned
back, and the weight of the birds should be great in proportion to
their size. Contrary to the practice with game, poultry never should
be kept long, as they turn easily, and are spoilt if the least high.
They also require longer cooking, in proportion to their size, than
game, and never should be underdone. Dark-legged fowls are best for
roasting, as their flesh is moister and better flavored cooked in this
way than the white-legged ones, which from their greater daintiness of
appearance are to be preferred for boiling.
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