It was while Florence was nominally under the sway of Hugo's most
famous successor, the Countess Matilda of Tuscany, that Dante's
ancestor Cacciaguida was born; and, in the fifteenth and sixteenth
cantos of the _Paradiso_, he draws an ideal picture of that austere
old Florence, _dentro dalla cerchia antica_, still within her Roman
walls. We can still partly trace and partly conjecture the position of
these walls. The city stood a little way back from the river, and had
four master gates; the Porta San Piero on the east, the Porta del
Duomo on the north, the Porta San Pancrazio on the west, the Porta
Santa Maria on the south (towards the Ponte Vecchio). The heart of the
city, the Forum or, as it came to be called, the Mercato Vecchio, has
indeed been destroyed of late years to make way for the cold and
altogether hideous Piazza Vittorio Emanuele; but we can still perceive
that at its south-east corner the two main streets of this old
_Florentia quadrata_ intersected,--Calimara, running from the Porta
Santa Maria to the Porta del Duomo, south to north, and the Corso,
running east to west from the Porta San Piero to the Porta San
Pancrazio, along the lines of the present Corso, Via degli Speziali,
and Via degli Strozzi. The Porta San Piero probably stood about where
the Via del Corso joins the Via del Proconsolo, and there was a suburb
reaching out to the Church of San Piero Maggiore. Then the walls ran
along the lines of the present Via del Proconsolo and Via dei
Balestrieri, inclosing Santa Reparata and the Baptistery, to the Duomo
Gate beyond the Bishop's palace--probably somewhere near the opening
of the modern Borgo San Lorenzo. Then along the Via Cerretani, Piazza
Antinori, Via Tornabuoni, to the Gate of San Pancrazio, which was
somewhere near the present Palazzo Strozzi; and so on to where the
Church of Santa Trinità now stands, near which there was a postern
gate called the Porta Rossa. Then they turned east along the present
Via delle Terme to the Porta Santa Maria, which was somewhere near the
end of the Mercato Nuovo, after which their course back to the Porta
San Piero is more uncertain. Outside the walls were churches and
ever-increasing suburbs, and Florence was already becoming an
important commercial centre. Matilda's beneficent sway left it in
practical independence to work out its own destinies; she protected it
from imperial aggressions, and curbed the nobles of the contrada, who
were of Teutonic descent and who, from their feudal castles round,
looked with hostility upon the rich burgher city of pure Latin blood
that was gradually reducing their power and territorial sway. At
intervals the great Countess entered Florence, and either in person or
by her deputies and judges (members of the chief Florentine families)
administered justice in the Forum. Indeed she played the part of
Dante's ideal Emperor in the _De Monarchia_; made Roman law obeyed
through her dominions; established peace and curbed disorder; and
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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