There is much difference of opinion as to the real date of
construction of the present building. While some authorities have
assigned it to the eleventh or even to the twelfth century, others
have supposed that it is either a Christian temple constructed in the
sixth century on the site of the old Temple of Mars, or the original
Temple converted into Christian use. It has indeed been recently urged
that it is essentially a genuine Roman work of the fourth century,
very analogous in structure to the Pantheon at Rome, on the model of
which it was probably built. The little apse to the south-west--the
part which contains the choir and altar--is certainly of the twelfth
century. There was originally a round opening at the centre of the
dome--like the Pantheon--and under this opening, according to Villani,
the statue of Mars stood. It was closed in the twelfth century. The
dome served Brunelleschi as a model for the cupola of Santa Maria del
Fiore. The lantern was added in the sixteenth century. Although this
building, so sacrosanct to the Florentines, had been spared by the
Goths and Lombards, it narrowly escaped destruction at the hands of
the Tuscan Ghibellines. In 1249, when the Ghibellines, with the aid of
the Emperor Frederick II., had expelled the Guelfs, the conquerors
endeavoured to destroy the Baptistery by means of the tower called the
Guardamorto, which stood in the Piazza towards the entrance of the
Corso degli Adimari, and watched over the tombs of the dead citizens
who were buried round San Giovanni. This device of making the tower
fall upon the church failed. "As it pleased God," writes Villani,
"through the reverence and miraculous power of the blessed John, the
tower, when it fell, manifestly avoided the holy Church, and turned
back and fell across the Piazza; whereat all the Florentines wondered,
and the People greatly rejoiced."
At the close of the thirteenth century, in those golden days of
Dante's youth and early manhood, there were steps leading up to the
church, and it was surrounded by these tombs. Many of the latter seem
to have been old pagan sarcophagi adopted for use by the Florentine
aristocracy. Here Guido Cavalcanti used to wander in his solitary
musings and speculations--trying to find out that there was no God, as
his friends charitably suggested--and Boccaccio tells a most
delightful story of a friendly encounter between him and some young
Florentine nobles, who objected to his unsociable habits. In 1293,
Arnolfo di Cambio levelled the Piazza, removed the tombs, and
plastered the pilasters in the angles of the octagonal with slabs of
black and white marble of Prato, as now we see. The similar decoration
of the eight faces of the church is much earlier.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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