In the Borgo Ognissanti, where the Swiss of Charles VIII. in 1494,
forcing their way into the city from the Porta al Prato, were driven
back by the inhabitants, are the church of Ognissanti and the
Franciscan convent of San Salvadore. The church and convent originally
belonged to the Frati Umiliati, who settled here in 1251, were largely
influential in promoting the Florentine wool trade, and exceedingly
democratic in their sympathies. Their convent was a great place for
political meetings in the days of Giano della Bella, who used to walk
in their garden taking counsel with his friends. After the siege they
were expelled from Florence, and the church and convent made over to
the Franciscans of the Osservanza, who are said to have brought hither
the habit which St. Francis wore when he received the Stigmata. The
present church was built in the second half of the sixteenth century,
but contains some excellent pictures and frescoes belonging to the
older edifice. Over the second altar to the right is a frescoed Pietà,
one of the earliest works of Domenico Ghirlandaio, with above it the
Madonna taking the Vespucci family under her protection--among them
Amerigo, who was to give his name to the new continent of America.
Further on, over a confessional, is Sandro Botticelli's St. Augustine,
the only fresco of his still remaining in Florence; opposite to it,
over a confessional on the left, is St. Jerome by Domenico
Ghirlandaio; both apparently painted in 1480. In the left transept is
a Crucifix ascribed to Giotto; Vasari tells us that it was the
original of the numerous works of this kind which Puccio Capanna and
others of his pupils multiplied through Italy. In the sacristy is a
much restored fresco of the Crucifixion, belonging to the Trecento.
Sandro Botticelli was buried in this church in 1510, and, two years
later, Amerigo Vespucci in 1512. In the former Refectory of the
convent is a fresco of the Last Supper, painted by Domenico
Ghirlandaio in 1480, and very much finer than his similar work in San
Marco. In the lunette over the portal of the church is represented the
Coronation of the Blessed Virgin, by Giovanni della Robbia.
The Borgo Ognissanti leads hence westward into the Via del Prato, and
through the Porta al Prato, one of the four gates of the third wall of
the city, begun by Arnolfo in 1284; now merely a mutilated torso of
Arnolfo's stately structure, left stranded in the prosaic wilderness
of the modern Viale. The fresco in the lunette is by Michele di
Ridolfo Ghirlandaio. Down towards the Arno a single tower remains from
the old walls, mutilated, solitary and degraded so as to look a mere
modern bit of masonry.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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