Prato can likewise boast some excellent terracotta works by Andrea
della Robbia, both outside the Duomo and in the churches of Our Lady
of Good Counsel and Our Lady of the Prisons. This latter church, the
Madonna delle Carceri, reared by Giuliano da San Gallo between 1485
and 1491, is perhaps the most beautiful and most truly classical of
all Early Renaissance buildings in Tuscany.
Ten miles beyond Prato lies Pistoia, at the very foot of the
Apennines, the city of Dante's friend and correspondent, Messer Cino,
the poet of the golden haired Selvaggia, he who sang the dirge of
Caesar Henry; the centre of the fiercest faction struggles of Italian
history. It was the Florentine traditional policy to keep Pisa by
fortresses and Pistoia by factions. It lies, however, beyond the scope
of the present book, with the other Tuscan cities that owned the sway
of the great Republic. San Gemignano, that most wonderful of all the
smaller towns of Tuscany, the city of "the fair towers," of Santa Fina
and of the gayest of mediæval poets, Messer Folgore, comes into
another volume of this series.
But it is impossible to conclude even the briefest study of Florence
without a word upon that Tuscan Earthly Paradise, the Casentino and
upper valley of the Arno, although it lies for the most part not in
the province of Florence but in that of Arezzo. It is best reached by
the diligence which runs from Pontassieve over the Consuma Pass--where
Arnaldo of Brescia, who lies in the last horrible round of Dante's
Malebolge, was burned alive for counterfeiting the golden florins of
Florence--to Stia.[57] A whole chapter of Florentine history may be
read among the mountains of the Casentino, writ large upon its castles
and monasteries. If the towers of San Gemignano give us still the
clearest extant picture of the life led by the nobles and magnates
when forced to enter the cities, we can see best in the Casentino how
they exercised their feudal sway and maintained for a while their
independence of the burgher Commune. The Casentino was ruled by the
Conti Guidi, that great clan whose four branches--the Counts of
Romena, the Counts of Porciano, the Counts of Battifolle and Poppi,
the Counts of Dovadola (to whom Bagno in Romagna and Pratovecchio here
appear to have belonged)--sprang from the four sons of Gualdrada,
Bellincion Berti's daughter. Poppi remains a superb monument of the
power and taste of these "Counts Palatine of Tuscany"; its palace on a
small scale resembles the Palazzo Vecchio of Florence. Romena and
Porciano, higher up stream, overhanging Pratovecchio and Stia, have
been immortalised by the verse and hallowed by the footsteps of Dante
Alighieri. Beneath the hill upon which Poppi stands, an old bridge
still spans the Arno, upon which the last of the Conti Guidi, the
Count Francesco, surrendered in 1440 to the Florentine commissary,
Neri Capponi. After the second expulsion of the Medici from Florence,
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